Jump to content
SAU Community

Pricing

Whyallapunk

By Whyallapunk,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

Whyallapunk Collaborator

Whyallapunk

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Nah sorry havn't swapped the air flow meter yet as don't have time because of school, and dad is usually busy. Another bloody problem now.... when the car sort of dies, the sterring locks up and the battery light flicks on. The steering becomes really stiff around that corner it dies on and is heaps hard to move. I almost crashed 2day. So i'll be driving a little AE86 around until it is fixed. Hopefully dad can get it done this weekend. Thanx for all the help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3151675
Share on other sites
pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted (edited)
Nah sorry havn't swapped the air flow meter yet as don't have time because of school, and dad is usually busy. Another bloody problem now.... when the car sort of dies, the sterring locks up and the battery light flicks on. The steering becomes really stiff around that corner it dies on and is heaps hard to move. I almost crashed 2day. So i'll be driving a little AE86 around until it is fixed. Hopefully dad can get it done this weekend. Thanx for all the help.

This sounds like the same problem. If your engine cuts out for whatever reason, you'll lose your power steering and the battery light will be on the same as it is when you click your key over to start the car in the morning (or say when you're running the radio without the engine on etc...its just telling you its using battery).

It sounds to me like it could be your Air Flow Meter. Rather than swap it, have you considered cleaning the contacts inside it (ie. in the middle of the piping, not the electrics itself). There are two little wires that hang down into the middle of the AFM pipe and a little thin wire runs between them which measures the amount of airflow through the intake piping. Sometimes these can get covered in stuff such as oil if you have an oiled air filter (like a K&N for example)...

Its an easy job - take your AFM off (might need to remove your airbox and also loosen the clip on the other side of the AFM so you can remove it from the piping). You'll then see the little wires clearly visible when you look through it. All I've done in the past is pour some methylated spirits (ie. metho) over these wires (do NOT touch them with your fingers or anything whatever you do) and then leave the AFM in the sun to dry out. You can also run a small amount of metho over the pins where the plug goes into on the side if you want, just to make for a better contact. If you dont have metho you can just use any non-residual contact cleaner. I just use metho cos its something I have in the cupboard.

If you leave the AFM in the sun afterwards it wont take very long to dry, say about 10 minutes? then just put it back in the car and job's done.

I had problems like loss of power and then power would be a bit stuttery - in my last car (nissan silvia turbo). Eventually the engine started dropping out on idle and it cut out a couple of times in traffic - very unsafe I agree with you. The car actually got so bad it wouldn't idle at all, but it turned out to be the AFM and replacing that solved my problem. Then I learned you could clean it, so try that first, it might save you a lot of money. :D

(apologies for the long post but I forgot to mention, if you're looking for a workshop - go Boostworx for sure. they may be booked up a little bit but thats BECAUSE they are that good)

Edited by pixel8r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3151890
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Or grab a can Electronic Cleaning Solvent from jaycar. Spray it plenty and by the time the afm is back on the car its all dry.

The jaycar stuff I've found strips the oil off better than the dicksmith gear.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...=&SUBCATID=

Its also GREAT for removing water off a motherboard quickly after you've washed it in the sink. lol

(damn dirty smokers; you should see what it does to your computer) :P

I usually hit it twice.. initially with the cleaning solvent then wash then hit it again to quickly remove the water.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3152347
Share on other sites
Race__24 Experienced

Race__24

Posted
Posted

Yeah, I can't complain with the work, the cost was also justified but i had no idea it was going to cost so much untill i went to pick my car up even after asking for estimates along the way. They put my current motor in but did everything while the engine was out rather than risk it. ie. waterpump, oilpump, new idler and tensioner, timing belt, rear main etc. etc. etc. etc.

But yeah, expencive :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170424-pricing/page/2/#findComment-3153941
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Biggest thing is you're okay!   It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant!   Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out
    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?
    • PranK
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By PranK · Posted

      The stutter is almost entirely in the pedal. I don't feel the brakes release and reapply as you would with ABS engaging but the pedal feels that way, without the brakes releasing. It only lasts for less than a second and the pedal is fine again. It's hard to explain, sorry.  I'll get under this weekend and just double check everything is tight. Fluid is at max where I left it.
    • MBS206
      Slight brake pedal stutter after new pads

      By MBS206 · Posted

      What bedding in procedure did you use?   When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!
    • bcozican
      R32 Gtst - Track Car

      By bcozican · Posted

      Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - then entered a hotlap with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - hopefully the motor and other things are OK but yet to be seen too. There is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it Effort doesnt win you races though     Apparently this is motorsport !  
×
×
  • Create New...