Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys.

I am just about to purchase a imported R34 GTT.

Few questions. It has a catback, coilovers, oilcooler, boost controller and POD filter.

Do i require a ECU? or do RB25DET NEO's run ok with these mods?

Also, how much boost are these running in stock form and what can i (not going to yet) up the boost to without damaging my engine?

Is the gearbox weak in this model? How about the brakes? What is the most logical upgrade for the brakes?

And are knocking noises in the rear normal for cars with coilovers? Because all cars i drove with coilovers had these knocks in the rear :S

And lets say i do require a ECU and tune. Which ones are recommended for these cars?

I've been a WRX man and i'm new to the scene. Any help would be appreciated.

Edited by Fujiwara
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170557-noob-questions-with-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Welcome aboard and good luck with your new car. Nice choice :P

No ECU-upgrade required for those mods.

Boost on the stock ECU (if the same as the R33) is 5psi then after 4500rpm it goes to 7psi, and yes that is suppossed to happen on the standard ECU

Gearbox will be fine for mods up to 300rwkws and beyond.

Brakes are pretty good too. Easiest to change to slotted fronts and decent pads all 'round(Group Buy thread has slotted RDA rotors for really chep prices)

Most common ECU is the APEXi Power FC

I suggest you complete that exhasut and get it 3inch right thru from turbo.

Get the ECU and tune it on about 12 psi.

Nice powerfull 200rwkws pushing you back in the seat.

Won't need a FMIC for that power on the R34, apparently the Side Mount on the 34 is really good.

I would of tried searching for your answers in each different area. :P You would have eventually come up with the results.

1. Nope those mods should be fine with stock ECU.

2. Simply never run more then 12psi other wise you'll kill your stock turbo. Your turbo will run out of puff before your engine does.

3. Not that I know of? I'm pretty sure the box similar to the R33 GTS-T box which means it should be fairly well built and should be able to take a good thrashing.

4. Depends what you want to do? If its just a street car I say just get some decents pads with good fluid. The stock rotors are 310mm so are more then enough, front calipers are 4 pot as well. If you want to go a step further just get some braided lines and a master cylinder stopper.

5. Generally a lot of knocking and clunking means the coilovers are busted. Then again your suspension can be very stiff which results in a 'noisy' ride.

6. For simplicity, PFC is the way to go. Straight bolt in with a 20x20 ignition and fuel map. A bit hard to find now a days though.

Id say main mod you need is a S-AFC (by apexi) it controls the air flow and fuel mixtures .. about $400 bux new ..

Then you can boost it to dual stage 10psi/12psi (use lower boost on track obviously) and get a tune .. then your on the money :P

Side mount is good for 200rwkws and a little more .. with upping the boost with those mods you'll prob hit 200rwkws if you add a pod filter (apexi would be best) and a turbo back exhaust (twin dumps with high flow cat would be best)

so once u do that .. hit it up with a front mount, rims and a kit and you'll be riding in style

Edited by DECIM8

Why would you bother with things like SAFCs when they are going to become useless as the modifcations go on... I personally would never advise anyone to go for a SAFC if they have "future" plans.

In order of upgrade:

Stage 1

Complete Exhaust (Split Dump, High Flow Cat)

Front Mount Intercooler

Bigger Fuel Pump

FPR

Stage 2

Bigger Turbo

Bigger Injectors

Camshafts

Full aftermarket ECU

Stage 3

R34GTR Brembo Brake Upgrade

Suspension Components

Damnit Birnie beat me. ;)

:P

And as far as the SAFC goes, i agree, don't bother.

I've owned both the SAFC-II and the PowerFc

The SAFC was a waste of money and time. It was intersting and a good learning experience but still i'd advise saving some extra cash and getting ANY full ECU

WOW.

That was fast. Thanks for all the input~

And forgot to mention that it already has a FMIC.

Getting an inspection done tmr and if all goes well...then i buy.

Hopefully the coilovers aren't damaged...

And i was thinking the PFC...but yeah i knew that APEXi stopped making them...mayb bankrupt now as well...

And is there a short shifter (good one) available for these?

Cause it was pretty long.....

So many plans....bahhh~~~

Edited by Fujiwara

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...