Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

what sort of kws you making? How long you had it on for?

ive had it for like 6-7 weeks. i had it at 210rwk on 12.8 psi. stock injectors stock fuel pump. pfc. cooler, exhaust 3in.

toned it down to 10 psi for now cause the stock pump was unstable. 182rwk for now on 10psi. need a new fuel pump then il turn it back up.

Edited by R33GOD
ive had it for like 6-7 weeks. i had it at 210rwk on 12.8 psi. stock injectors stock fuel pump. pfc. cooler, exhaust 3in.

toned it down to 10 psi for now cause the stock pump was unstable. 182rwk for now on 10psi. need a new fuel pump then il turn it back up.

hmm but there rated at 260kws arent they?

hmm but there rated at 260kws arent they?

yea...it definately could go to 260rwk depending on the boost . i was just shy of 13 psi. oh yea..stock air flow meter too.

i have the smallest hiflow on my car also.

Edited by R33GOD
My car has 18's and is not lowered and i never have problems with any roads or car parks :D standard mspec bar ftw

haha I have 18's too but with suspension and a 400R front (sitting just over 100mm) it limits where it can go :P

I was getting around 300km's a tank in Perth, but coming to Melbourne I barely break 200km's city driving.

yea...it definately could go to 260rwk depending on the boost . i was just shy of 13 psi. oh yea..stock air flow meter too.

i have the smallest hiflow on my car also.

do you kno what the biggest high flow is rated at?

hmm but there rated at 260kws arent they?

With the supporting mods you already have, the high flow should break into your desired power figure given 18+ psi boost I would think

You may want to look at the injectors too so that they aren't running 100%. My 850cc use a max of around 65-70%

do you kno what the biggest high flow is rated at?

i think slide rates them at the same power level. if you want to retain basically no lag get the one i have. chris has the max oversize and finds it a tad laggy. he is still happy none the less.

With the supporting mods you already have, the high flow should break into your desired power figure given 18+ psi boost I would think

You may want to look at the injectors too so that they aren't running 100%. My 850cc use a max of around 65-70%

hey so you thin 555c injectors would be to small?

i think slide rates them at the same power level. if you want to retain basically no lag get the one i have. chris has the max oversize and finds it a tad laggy. he is still happy none the less.

cool thanks, i just dont wanna go small and get sick of the power and upgrade again.. lol

cool thanks, i just dont wanna go small and get sick of the power and upgrade again.. lol

haha trust me, you will want to upgrade again at some point no matter how much power you have :P

555cc should be big enough for your current goal, but go bigger if you have plans to go for more power later on

haha trust me, you will want to upgrade again at some point no matter how much power you have :P

555cc should be big enough for your current goal, but go bigger if you have plans to go for more power later on

whats the next step up from 555c injectors? isnt the bigger the injectors the more fuel you use?

i got 740cc injectors and a 044 pump which is rated at around 800hp. I get 450km's to a tank.

so ok if i get slides high flow, and deatchworks injectors ill get th 66somthing c ones and with my existing mods ( FMIC, POD, POWER FC & Controller, Bosch Fuel pump, 3inch stainless steel exhaust, boost controller) i shold make roughly how many kws? and still get good fuel economy

I know mine's not a gts-t, but ive got well over 300rwKw on my gtr, and 550 injectors are fine, well i have a full fuelling system set up. Fuel consumption, i once did purely city driving n no highway, only got 270kms out of like 62L thereabouts, but i run a very rich tune. Tell your tuner how u want the tune to be, response or max output or etc. Dyno figures are not everything.

so ok if i get slides high flow, and deatchworks injectors ill get th 66somthing c ones and with my existing mods ( FMIC, POD, POWER FC & Controller, Bosch Fuel pump, 3inch stainless steel exhaust, boost controller) i shold make roughly how many kws? and still get good fuel economy

u should see 240-260rwk and depending on your tune n boost. i think you should manage about 450- 500k's a tank thats if you cruise. if you have a heavy foot i think between 270-300k's. exceeding the 220rwk mark might require you to change your afm also. :(

Edited by R33GOD
so ok if i get slides high flow, and deatchworks injectors ill get th 66somthing c ones and with my existing mods ( FMIC, POD, POWER FC & Controller, Bosch Fuel pump, 3inch stainless steel exhaust, boost controller) i shold make roughly how many kws? and still get good fuel economy

In my experience best to get injectors that were made to flow 550 not rebuilt to flow 550.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
    • hi mate, HKS cooler piping still available by any chance?
×
×
  • Create New...