Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Just want some opinions on whether or not i should get a Power FC for my GTR.

I initially bought the car with "bone stock" in mind but again like before i think the mod bug has hit me again. But i dont wanna go crazy and spend too much.

I am aiming for around 200rwkw with stock boost. I dont want to run anymore than standard boost but i want that sort of figure. Is this achievable with just a 3 inch exhaust from the front pipes back with metal cat and just a PFC and 10psi? Or is it still recommended that i get a boost controller?

If this is possible i may go this way as less boost = more reliable

Opnions? Thanks!

14-15psi nets around the 250rwkw mark.

So i cant see it being impossible, more very possible... and with even less than you listed :cheers:

I reckon it could be done on the stock ECU.

Exhaust (and dumps)

10psi

Adj cam gear

Then and someone that knows what they are doing with the cam timing etc.... and you'll have 200rwkw i would safely bet.

fwiw my R33 GTR went 180kw at the wheels with nothing but a 3.5" exhaust (Kakimoto N1), compliance cat, std air filter panel and stock boost (being bled off via a leaking plenum). Looking at the ECU it may have been modded though (Japanese writing engraved across the label).

I'm pretty sure you'd get 200 with the mods nismoid suggested, exhaust, better cat, better panel and take out the boost restrictor.

Cheers

  • 4 weeks later...

^^

haha yeah - what the!?

that reminds me of my ridiculous posts on a commodore forum - because you had to have a minimum number of posts before you could sell in the trader forum. e.g.

"Yes there is a good chance it will work"

"Definitely...unless it's not what you're after"

etc etc ;)

if you're sticking with stock boost and less mods overall, it might be better to spend the money on cams and a SAFC than a pfc?

hey Phil,

like "made-guy' says, if your gonna just want those simple mods then it might be better to get an SAFC and boost controller. The safc will let ya adjust fuel corrections to lean/rich your tune as needed. The PFC would be a more complete option if you are considering further mods.

I guess it comes down to what you want

you are on 200kw's + if you know where the little restrictors are ! your Standard ECU will learn this power not a problem!

Get a PFC if you want a plug and play upgrade for bigger turbos and around the 250 260 + kilowatt's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...