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Hey everyone, just thought I would put the question forward to everyone who reads and replies. I'm at the stage of servicing my R33 and I wanted to really take care of it to ensure longer life.

Some things dont actually need replacing urgently but while I have the money to do so, I'd like to take care of most things in one go while im at it.

Anyway, its just clocked over 110,000km, I had the timing belt, water pump, radiator piping and few other bits and pieces replaced about 5000km ago but that pretty much drained my pockets but I knew they had to be done. So what I'm after, is what everyone has used to keep their 33's running smoothly and where abouts they got the part(s).

While im asking, there have been a few puzzling things I havent been able to find out about. I'm going to be replacing my break pads and obviously going to have to have my rotors machined but in case ive reached my minimum thickness, how do I go about getting replacements for both front and rear? DBA dont seem to have the NA 4-stud rotors listed anyware.

Sorry for a lengthy post, thought I'd get everything out in 1 post rather than start many.

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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171031-servicing-my-na-r33-advise/
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RDA do na brake discs

Regarding servicing, I change oil myself and use castrol magnatec or nissan oil ($30 for 5 litres) but the better the oil the better your engine you be in the long run theoretically. get what u pay for. try a fully synthetic one.

Of course change oil filter too ($10 from nissan)

read the faq for na thread for more info

yeah RDA are a worthy replacement... i wouldnt class it up there with DBA, but unless you're really pushing them you wont notice.

like greg said - filter and oil is very simple...

another thing to look at is your fuel pump

Actually, now that the fuel pump has been brought up, just wondering if anybody else has experincenced anything simular. Basically, I never like to run my fuel down low I've always made it a habbit to keep the tank full, I've only ever used 96-98 petrol from either mobil or BP but when the indicator says around 1/4 left or sometimes even just under the half way mark between the two, it feels as if the car is sometimes finding it hard to bring in fuel when its needed. Like as if theres hardly any petrol in the tank that what it feels like, but the pump isnt carrying on or anything but as soon as I fill it up to full the problem just seems to go away, not 1 bit of hesitation.

I thought maybe it could of been the fuel pump getting on its last legs, I wouldnt know when it was last changed. But i doubt it would be anything as serious as having sludge or water sitting on the bottom of the tank would it?

there is various theories whether its bad or not to run the tank nearly dry etc etc

personally i believe that there shouldnt be much buildup in the bottom of the tank, and i always run the tank on my excel empty with no side effects

try a few times running the tank "emptier" so to nearly on empty and see what happens

if it seems to get rough and surging and lurching, then maybe its time to replace the pump (as teh filter sock is prob stuffed) and also check the fuel filter aswell

re: oils and the like - ive seen the results of changing all the oils to the Royal Purple brand (motor oil, diff oil and gearbox oil), with a power increase of around 10rwkw normal as this is a full synthetic, quality 0w (thin) oil

depending on the climate, a 0w oil might be too thin, but a good quality 10w or 15w semi or full synthetic would be the goods (and its not like a turbo motor oil, where the oil kinda gets 'heat cycled' by the turbo and supposedly breaks down quicker and therefore needs to be good quality and changed often)

dont go for a cheap oil.... i used to buy motul for my 200sx and it cost me about 40 for 3L.

just changing the oil used to cost about $100.

why risk going cheap... an engine is a lot more expecnsive to replace.

also are you sure you cant just call up DBA and have them redrill some other brakes to fit a NA R33?

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