Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, I've got a basically stock 92 r32 gts-t. Months and months ago i got a manual boost controller and turned the boost up to about 12-13psi and more recently i got a 3 inch exhaust with split dump and high flow cat.

It has always run great and loved to be thrashed. But last week on a f**king cold night, i gave it a hit (once the engine was fully warmed) and as the boost started to build, the engine choked. I lost all power and it felt like i was basically just rolling. I had to come off the accelerator to get the power back. This would happen late at nights and early in the morning when it is incredibly cold, but during the day it runs perfectly.

Me and my friend initially thought this was a matter of the stock fuel pump and injectors not being able to match the colder denser air now going into the engine. But the last few days i haven't been able to replicate the problem. It seems to be running fine even on the coldest nights.

What's going on? Why did i have this problem one week, but not the next?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171190-power-cut-on-cold-nights/
Share on other sites

did the power cut happen above 4000rpm and was it a missfiring all the up the rev range?

I had similar problem and mechanic said it was crank angle sensor.

It could also be your coilpacks not handling the higher power from the dense air. Check coilpacks for hairline cracks.

sounds like boost cut to me. just means your hitting a point on your ECU map that it considers dangerous and cuts power to the engine. time for aftermarket management, or just take out ~1 PSI to avoid it. if there are other symptoms (like missfiiring through the rev range) could be the coilpacks.. but from what youve said, its just boost cut.

fuel cut wind down the boost so it doesnt cut under all condition i.e cold nights

12 + psi is alot without a cooler on a cold night it could easily spike to over 1 bar

So if down the track i get a cooler, the problem is gonna happen more often?

Im surprised you are running 12psi with only catback and no fmic.

It's preferred that these 2 are modified before any boost is increased because you may be causing a lot of harm.

I suggest drop it back down to 10psi and get supporting mods before you start increasing boost

Im surprised you are running 12psi with only catback and no fmic.

It's preferred that these 2 are modified before any boost is increased because you may be causing a lot of harm.

I suggest drop it back down to 10psi and get supporting mods before you start increasing boost

Hey, I've got a basically stock 92 r32 gts-t. Months and months ago i got a manual boost controller and turned the boost up to about 12-13psi and more recently i got a 3 inch exhaust with split dump and high flow cat.

I got turbo back exhaust.

Just trying to decide which path to take atm.

I really wanna get an fmic, but if i do that then i definately have to get an ecu. And after that i'm gonna want more and more power because i know i can have it. So it's gonna cost me alot in the long run.

Alternatively i could turn down the boost and save my money. But stock power is sooooo boring.

Getting an fmic does not warrant an ecu...although some sort of ecu will probably be best...if you keep your boost to 12psi...i don't see any problem...provided you are not running mixtures that are too lean...have you got a fuel pump yet? if not...i'd get one asap...even before considering a fmic...fuel pumps on 32s are VERY old now and will most likely be on their way out....

Edited by limpus

Can the power drain on the battery cause this?

I have had this happen to me...twice so far.

On cold nights....my heater,power fc,AVCR ,air purifier..stereo/amp/sub...lights...are all on.....

Can the drain in the power and a bad battery be at fault.

The battery in the boot is tiny and due to workshop downtime has been drained at least 10 times....

The only thing I think that keeps it firing every morning is the turbo timer charging it the night before..lol

It sounds like it is electrical...if you know your battery is good...check your coils....spark plugs.

This can also be a AFM fault.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
    • Yeah - I mean, go the other way. Smaller range. Not larger.
    • To re-cap, I bought: https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8G-Infiniti-Q50-Q60-2014_1601171829627.html?spm=a2756.trade-list-buyer.0.0.2cd476e9FTIlKE As you can see, if I bought 20 it was $653, but I bought 1 so it was $1,170. I was very tempted to buy 2 and resell 1 at 25% cheaper. @MBS206, I am not sure if they do a Kluger one, here is their list but it might be there under a global model name: http://www.lsailt.com/product/android-interface?page=1 Keep in mind these full android replacements have basically all the bits a phone does (cpu, ram, storage, wifi, bluetooth, usb interfaces) other than a screen (it uses a host), thus the $800+ cost. Android Auto screen mirroring is MUCH cheaper as it's just a cut down shell, input mirroring and output mirroring BTW I also need that "screen off" feature, it is much harder to see wildlife even if a dash is reasonably dark. Both the Fuga and V37 have display off buttons for night use, they just come back on for a second or 3 if you interact with it, eg skip a song.
×
×
  • Create New...