Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone driven some of the newer auto's that has a foot brake instead of a handbrake? For those that don't know about it, they install this foot brake/pedal exactly where the clutch is on a manual car.

Has anyone subconsciously tried to clutch an auto and hit this foot brake before?

they have been doing that for years.

imagine trying to do handbrake turns in the old kingswoods that had the handbrake in between the drivers seat and the door.

also bring back the old highbeam switch next to the clutch pedal i saw.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i think the big fat pedal is for - as said so that you can plant both feet on it in an emergency. or so that you have more of a pedal to hit when braking? maybe some people miss it????

and the foot brake instead of a handbrake is just stupid... cant pull it when driving, and you cant rest yuor feet where it is

No clutch = more room + small brake pedal = more chance of missing = increase size of brake pedal = higher chance of hitting the brake pedal than thin air

Or could just be that auto drivers arent as coordinated as manual drivers therefore requiring larger brake pedal XD

the merc courtesy car i had from gt auto, had the accelerator pedal, the big brake pedal, and the handbrake pedal next to the brake pedal. Luckily, because im a n00b with german automobiles, wayne made sure i knew about the hand brake pedal that was situated where the clutch pedal would normally be situated.

hate to think what i would have gotten myself into if I thought that perhaps the merc had a tiptronic that works off the 3rd pedal!

I would rather have a massive pedal I cant miss in an emergency ( cause its so freakin big ) rather than have a smaller pedal and a toaster to electrocute me when accidentally stick my foot in it during an emergency stop !

my ol torry used to have the "hand" brake left side next to the main brake with a switch left of the console you had to "twist and pull"

of coarse the car started as a column shift auto, became a t-bar auto then a 4 sp manual. ahhhh the ol steel thing was great... doors 4" thick.. choice wood grain coloir plastics with the lino covered foam infils.. pure class

did burnouts well though with its leaf springs. major braking upgrade went from rear drums to 4 wheel disks .. awsome.

that thing chewed more blocks then any other car I've ever owned to this day.. it was the variable capacity car.. it had as much capacity as I could afford at the next time I blew something...

Edited by scheris

i suppose that in a manual car when you have to stop in a hurry you put your left foot on the clutch as well as your right foot on the brake, so you left foot stops your right foot over shooting. so with left leg out wide, you need a bigger brake pedal to help you hit the target better.

my guess at why the auto brake pedal is so big is so you can left foot brake (and i'm being serious).

That isnt it...

I honestly think if google didnt have an answer, there is no reason to it other than the ' 'cause I can' logic.

It IS so you can brake with either foot

Prove it. Because deadset that is one of the most dangerous things in an emergency as 99.99% of people just push down hard with both feet. So if one is on the go, and the other is on the woah, and you punch them both, you do not stop. (most people are smart enough to not use their left foot in an auto car so it isnt an issue).

And if car designers really ARE that stupid, probably not a bad idea they make the thing tiny.

Left foot braking is a pretty contentious issue. Most of the oldschool guys don't like it, but a lot of the modern advanced driving instructors have no problem with it.

To my knowledge, a lot of the professional racers with clutchless manual setups will always left foot brake these days, and even in clutch-equipped cars some racers will left foot trail brake, or use it to adjust the car's attitude.

I don't see how its "not smart" to left foot brake in an auto, as long as you know what you're doing (which, of course, does rule out the vast majority of road users). I find left foot braking my old man's auto car quite helpful when I'm going for a spirited drive in it, and I will occasionally dab the left foot in my manual car to tuck the nose in when its power-on understeering, but if I ever were to panic stop I'll instinctively right foot brake in either car.

every go-kart driver left foot brakes. i'd like to see someone use the 1 foot for braking and accelerating in a go-kart.

as scathing said, race drivers who left foot brake can get on the gas earlier, and keep the car stable through corners. it also helps to catch the car if you lock the rear brakes. greg murphy is probably the most notable of the v8 supercar drivers who left foot brake.

Has anyone driven some of the newer auto's that has a foot brake instead of a handbrake? For those that don't know about it, they install this foot brake/pedal exactly where the clutch is on a manual car.

Has anyone subconsciously tried to clutch an auto and hit this foot brake before?

the new mitsubishi colts have the pedal for the handbrake. its really odd i reckon. When i did

work experience at yorke mitsubishi (Adelaide) heaps of new colts were getting their hand brake cables and rear pads fitted with new ones because people were forgetting about the hand brake because it was a foot pedal and not the usual hand lever thingo. lol i thought it was funny, ccould of been a scheme by mistubishi to make people spend more money on changing rear pads and handbrake cables because they knew people would forget about the hand/foot brake pedal lol

People that drive auto's are crappy drivers and manufactures design them larger to give them all the help they can.

Nah, seriously I think it's that auto's used to be classified as luxury and only higher end cars had them and the bigger pedal signified the refinement and added benefit.

I would rather have a massive pedal I cant miss in an emergency ( cause its so freakin big ) rather than have a smaller pedal and a toaster to electrocute me when accidentally stick my foot in it during an emergency stop !

abviously you dont get how unbelievably convenient it would be to have a toaster in your car :woot:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome to my 2004 Toyota Mark ii IR-V Fortuna (series 2) With a 1JZ-GTE powerplant under the bonnet (hood) it'll give me plenty of scope for power upgrades. For those who aren't familiar with imports, the 1JZ-GTE is a 2.5L 6 cylinder VVTi engine with a single turbocharger. This has the factory R154 5 speed gearbox, along with a aftermarket 2 way LSD differential (brand unknown). Under the arches are a set of CST Zero 1 alloys, 18x9 +30 225/40 up front and 18x9.5 +15 265/35 on the rear. The car was quite low in Japan and there's evidence of the wheels catching the rolled arches/fenders. The tyre's aren't great so I'm in two minds whether to replace both or just the tyres and put up with the wider wheels on the rear. The car still uses stock brakes with the addition of some braided hoses. The exterior is stock with the exception of a BN Sports front bumper and a replacement Fortuna grill  Moving to the interior, the steering wheel has been replaced with a dished MOMO steering wheel (which will get swapped for my Momo Tuner for the time being) Defi Link Gauges are mounted above the climate controls and on the A pillar, the Oil Temp,Oil Pressure,Water Temp and Boost gauges should help with spirited and track driving  The stock seats have been replaced with some retrimmed Recaro bucket seats. Being a larger build these are a little snug, unfortunately the orange isn't for me so I'll look into replacing these down the line. Other modifications include a twin plate clutch, Blitz intercooler, Evolve alloy radiator, a stainless exhaust with decat, HKS EVC-S boost controller and coil overs
    • Apologies for the long read My R34 GTT was up for sale at the beginning of spring due to a few repairs creeping up. The strut tops needed replacing, roof and bonnet (hood) painting (yay for 3 stage pearl) and the underside stripped and treated. I sold the car which allowed me to be in a much better place financially. Leading up to the sale I was already thinking about the replacement. In an ideal world it needed to be a good all-rounder. Something I can mess around with, modify, do track days, do the school run, go on long drives etc.  Options included but not limited to... Laurel C35, Evo 8/9, Civic FD2, Impreza Hawkeye, Aristo and even an Audi S4 Avant (I've already got the Mazda 6 wagon). But there was always one car at the top of the list The Toyota Mark ii JZX110 I found an advert on a Facebook group for an example in Japan, from a seller called Jon at Rising Sun Exports. A few messages back and forth and Jon calls me from Yokohama one morning (or afternoon in his case). He briefly explained the import process, the costs involved and a repeat of the advert. After much deliberation, the price was agreed and the sale was locked in. I've never imported a vehicle so I jumped into the unknown head first. The money transfer was completed through wise.com (fees apply), very easy to use and the money was with him within a day or two.  The car suspension was raised for the vessel and the car dropped off at the port. It was 7 weeks later when the bill of lading was received and the freight invoice sent to me, followed by the export certificate a couple of days after (both digital copies) In the mean time the port had been in contact. I needed an agent to deal with the NOVA (notification of vehicle arrival) along with the tax/duty invoice, this was £75.00. The port also had a fee of £100, I'm guessing to cover the cost of the 10 day 'free storage' and for moving the car off the boat etc. They need a copy of the vehicle invoice, freight invoice and export certificate to allow the vehicle to pass through customs. The vessel arrived on Tuesday 5th August, the tax/duty invoice was generated and sent over. This is generally tax 20% and duty 10% of the vehicle value. Although the invoice came in at a higher amount than I had calculated. Once HMRC had received the payment the vehicle could be released from customs. I thought once the tax/duty was paid you could collect at any point, that's not the case. Your agent will need to book a collection slot, I requested Thursday 7th which was accepted, with a 9:00am slot allocated. It was a 5:00am start from Norfolk heading to Southampton. We eventually found the compound, upon presenting the bill of lading and some ID they released the car (they drove it out of the compound to the front ready for us to load up). The email from the port stated each slot had a 10 minute window, which seemed abit farfetched but the staff said it's not a strict rule. We were there for approx. 30-40 mins in total. A week prior to collecting I contacted my garage and explained the situation, I was able to get an inspection slot that afternoon. For the registration, DVLA require the car to be insured, for this I used a company called Adrian Flux who can insure the vehicle using the VIN number. 
    • Hey guys, looking for these side skirts if anyone can help me out. 
    • Wife and I are still looking for a new home. One condition was a large enough garage for a full-size lift in one bay. Now if only we could find something... We've been looking for almost a year now.
    • Thanks everyone for the ideas! Sadly, ramps are a no go for me. With young kids at home, I do most of my work late at night while they're sleeping. Starting the car multiple times wouldn't be a great idea.  I'll go see one of those new long reach low profile jacks and take a couple measurements to see if they will fit.   
×
×
  • Create New...