Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

dude wtf u guys have turbo cars and get that much Ks..

ive got a na r34 and the max i can get out of a full 70dollar tank is 300Ks MAX.

and i dont even have a heavy foot

all ive got is a 3inch pipe form the engine to back wif a 4inch tip..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3165928
Share on other sites

a tank is 45 litres so im guessing that i get about 22.5 litres per 100ks, which is ridiculous, i dont have a heavy foot but i do drive a lot of short distances do u think that this is the problem

if you do alot of stop and start driving and short trips you'll burn a hell of a lot more fuel than highway driving i used to get that sorta range when i was doing runaround driving in the city, also double check the last time your got a tune up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3166580
Share on other sites

A way you can gain more kms is to change to new oxygen sensors, new fuel filter, change back to stock air box and I think cleaning your air flow meter helps, but if your always having short trips, that explains why you don't get much out of a tank.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3166629
Share on other sites

the fact that you do short trips doesn't help.

try getting a new o2 sensor. it may also be that your water temp sensor is dodgy as well so it is constantly running on cold start enrichment even when it is warm, or your thermostat may be a bit dodgy and making the car run cooler, which has a similar effect.

also where you live can make a difference too. where i live is hilly, so that means you will use more fuel than somewhere that is flat.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3167132
Share on other sites

yer, as these guys say, im convinced its more the distance of driving you do than how you drive

as soon as i get out on the highway, i get much much better economy, than the normal driving to and from work

would easily get 400/450 ks to a tank on the highway, close to 300/350 to from work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3169168
Share on other sites

a tank is 45 litres so im guessing that i get about 22.5 litres per 100ks, which is ridiculous, i dont have a heavy foot but i do drive a lot of short distances do u think that this is the problem

whaaa???????

My tank is 61litres.....

and I average 10-11 litres per 100km (3" turbo back and a pod) and I dont drive slow either...

There is deffinately something wrong with your cars fuel consumption!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3169813
Share on other sites

02 sensor problem maybe? that will hinder on fuel consumption, i get 300 k's with 16psi modded engine and turbo and thats non conservative driving, id get it looked at or check the 02 sensor that may be a start or tune with aftermarket computer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170024
Share on other sites

Unless my understanding of the narrow-band O2 sensor is wrong, it is for closed loop feedback. ie. cruise conditions. Unlikely that will have any impact on crappy fuel consumption if you are only doing 2-3km short run driving.

Cold start / low temp enrichment comes from the engine temp sensor feedback into the ECU. Yeah, you could alter the signal if you're savvy with electronics but it would likely run like a dog until warm.

I suggest you plan a weekend away, and just do some cruising. Steady speeds, off boost, and actually LOG your fuel usage from full tank back to full tank. Then see what results you have over 5-600km.

Many people don't know how to drive to achieve great economy, and FWIW, you don't have a vehicle designed to achieve it either.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170205
Share on other sites

I'm also running about 10psi. I get to 300k when the needle is almost to the empty but have not had the fuel light come on yet so could probably get more. I am also a lead foot. I used to get only about 220k when I was runnin 16psi on an aftermarket computer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171814-fuel-problems/#findComment-3170450
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...