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FOR SALE: 1996 Skyline GTS-t

Silver Auto R33 Series II

95000Km (Engine Rebuilt at 75000Km)

$25,500 ONO

Engine Parts

HKS 256/264 Step1 Cams

HKS EX Cam Gear

RB30 Convertion

CP Pistons

ARP Rod Bolts

N1 Water Pump

JJR Engine Damper Kit

GREDDY Catch Can

Magnetic Drain Bolt

Intake Parts

Blitz Sonic Air Filter

Trust V-SPL Intercooler

HKS SSQV

Stainless Piping

HKS 3037 Pro S

Suspension

Adjustable Whiteline Swaybars Front & Rear

JJR Adjustable Castor Rods

Adjustable Rear Camber Bushes

Greddy Coilovers

GTR Rear Strut Brace

Nismo Rear Strut Brace

Do-Luck Chasis Brace

HICAS Lock Bar

Rear subframe Pineapples

Exhaust Parts

3" Dump and Front Pipe

3" High Flow Cat

3.5" HKS Hi Power 409

Fuel Parts

450cc High Flow Injectors

NISMO FPR

NISMO Fuel Pump

Control Parts

Greddy Profec B Spec I EBC

Wolf3D V4 ECU

Electrical Parts

Splitfire Coils

Apexi Grounding Kit

550CCA Sealed Battery

Brakes & Tyres

Hankook K104 F235/45/17 R255/40/17

17" Enkei Racing Peaks F17*7.5J R17*9J

NISMO Braided Brake Lines

Endless Straight 6 Front Rotors

Endless SSS Pads Front & Rear

Gearbox

MV Automatic Shift Kit

Gearbox Oil Cooler

Interior

Autometer Smoked Voltage Gauge

Autometer Smoked Gearbox Oil Gauge

Autometer Smoked Oil Pressure Gauge

Autometer Smoked Oil Temp Gauge

Autometer Smoked Water Temp Gauge

Apexi Boost Gauge

Navan Gear Knob

Carbon Trim Gear Boot

Orion 4*200W 4-Channel Amp

Lotus 6.5" Splits

Mp3 player/Ipod Connector

Exterior

Personalised License Plate "RB 30 WA"

Supervision HID 6000k

Wise Sports LED Tail Light

Ganador Electric Aero Mirrors

Tommy Kaira Rear Pods

M-spec Side Skirts

NISMO Side Indicators

Drift Wing

116xl5.jpg

scan0001fo4.jpg

With minor tweaks to the gearbox will run 10s

Call

Senna

0433 208 079

or E-mail us at [email protected]

NO TEST PILOTS

senar3301ls8.jpg

senar3302mx4.jpg

senar3303oq8.jpg

senar3304yd5.jpg

senar3305xn9.jpg

Imported at 65000Km in 2002, First Owner in Australia

Serviced every ~5000Km

Always Use BP Ultimate

Have receipts for modifications

Pictures are with R33 GTR rims sold seperately

No major scratches or dents, minor paint fade

Tyres are 6 months old with plenty of tread ~80%

Engine Built by Steve Lee

Engine Tuned by Steve Thomas

History of car at the following thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=83883

Spare Parts:

Stock Castor Rods with Whiteline bushes

Stock Series II Rear Wing Silver

Stock Swaybars Front and Rear

Stock R33 Weather Guards/shield

Stock Exhaust cam gear

Stock Intercooler includes piping

Stock HICAS Rack

Stock Springs

Stock Front+Dump pipe

Stock Cat

Stock Auto ECU

Stock Mud flaps Silver

Stock Side Mirrors

Stock Tail Lights pair

Stock Space Saver Spare

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

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This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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