Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can anyone tell me where the speedo gets it input from. I know the dash gauge itself is electronic and comes from the ECU, but which engine/gearbox sensors allows the ECU to read road speed?

My prob is that my speedo isnt working. MY AVC-R is wired into the ECU and it too isnt displaying road speed, instead reads 00.

Coinciding with my speedo quitting, is that my steering got very heavy and after about 2-3kms the HICAS light came on.

My theory is that the HICAS light is coming on as a warning that the HICAS computer isnt getting a road speed signal. (I recall reading R32s have speed sensitive steering). The heavy steering is a result of the HICAS comp having no idea of road speed and is running home to mamma.

So back to which sensors allow the ECU to read road speed. Fingers crossed its a faulty plug, wire/sensor and after a simple fix all will be right. Thing is i need to know which sensor do i look at first.

Do modern cars still have spedo cables coming from the gearbox?

Thanks for any hlp you can offer

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17228-ecu-speedo/
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Sorry to dig up an old one (seems to be a trend lately :))

But i installed a r33 box in my r32. Now the speedo doesnt read anything, and the power fc hand controller isnt getting a speed reading as well....reads 00

My powersteering is also playing up big time as well :(

How did you end up knowing to replace the speedo cable Troy? Do i have to change the speedo cable to a 32 GTR one to get my speedo to work in the r32?

The speedo sender in the box is the r33 bottom with the gtr mechanical end on it. It and the r33 box was used in a previous r32 and both were working....

My speedo was working before the rb30det went in, with the rb20det and rb20det gearbox :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17228-ecu-speedo/#findComment-987334
Share on other sites

The r33 box i have was put into a r32 and worked previously. Speedo and all. It has the modified speedo sender already in it...ie r33 bottom half with the r32 gtr top mechanical half.

So i thought it was a simple procedure of screwing my speedo cable in to get it to work, but unfortunatly it didnt work....

Clint....did you end up using a r32 GTR speedo cable in the r32 to get it to work, or is there something im missing???

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17228-ecu-speedo/#findComment-987497
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...