Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey ppl,

Lookin at upgrading my cooler so I can increase the boost a little. I drive a 33 gtst, at the moment its fairly stock (just a catback) but I plan to finish off the exhaust then safc + ebc + cooler + pod/panel filter.

I'm reluctant to get a fmic cos i really dont wanna cut the bar/reo/anything. So... considering an ARC (or other?) side mount replacement. How would one of these compare to a fmic (say blitz for example)? I have the stock turbo and dont have any plans to replace til it blows, so I'll be running up to 14 psi. will i have problems with the cooler heat soaking?

also, how should i expect lag, boost etc to change after just upgrading the cooler?

i read in other forums that the 34 smic is a good upgrade, im assuming the ARC would be even better?

Thanks for your input.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/
Share on other sites

An ARC smic I can hold up to 200rwkw if i remember correctly. I would assume the lag wouldn't be much different from stock. The piping isn't longer than stock is it? At 14psi, I would say that a smic is enough, but what happens when you want bigger power?

In my opinion, I would get a good fmic to start off. No point wasting money on things and buying again later on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3171982
Share on other sites

i believe it's a direct bolt on replacement using the stock piping... but wouldn't there be any improvement from a more free flowing core? i would have thought the 33 core acted as more of a bottleneck than the piping.

I can see where you're coming from, and i would rather get a nice fmic... but i really dread the thought of massacring the front bar :S REALLY want to avoid that lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172020
Share on other sites

r33 smic is crap even at stock boost. if u want to go a front mount the u have to look at cutting into the chassis then cutting fan blades unless u bring out the big bucks and buy a front mount which runs off the standard piping but even then u have to chop away at the front bar to fit it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172033
Share on other sites

if you wanna run good power and keep it looking stock the a ARC R34 side mount is great its a direct fit for the R33 also and is bigger than the stock R34 cooler so is a massive increase for a R33. Its hard trying to source one.

Nengun sell the m105 core for the r34 for $1500 delivered, and the m075 for the r33 for $1100 delivered. pretty pricy lol but i guess there'd be no installation costs so I'd save there.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172039
Share on other sites

I have the stock turbo and dont have any plans to replace til it blows, so I'll be running up to 14 psi.

shouldnt be too far off replacing it if your going to run 14 psi.

i dont run mine past 11 and most people will reccommend you dont run it past 12. but i guess its no biggie for you if you dont mind replacing it, then go for ya life :)

Edited by jake33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172103
Share on other sites

14 will be safe, if your has the supporting mods.

AS for stock turbo untuned, you will get more response and power by running less boost.

Just because you run 14psi doesnt mean your car will going any faster.

Run 0.8 bar max.

That is 10psi.

I can gurantee you the responce will be much better with lower amount of boost.

Once your car is tuned to run a little higher boost then go for it.

Get a 34 side mount, which can handle up to 200-210kw.

ARC are to pricey. 34 cooler will do the job fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172233
Share on other sites

The R34 SMIC is a direct bolt on for a R33.

Benefits are;

Less throttle lag

No cutting chassis holes

Still run around with a Pod as they cant see changed smic

They can handle up to 230kw~ but do get a bit of heatsoak, best to ask a r34 owner

ARC much more expensive than the R34 SMIC and not quite sure if you'll get a noticeably large difference between the two.

More info;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=158811

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172252
Share on other sites

Once your car is tuned to run a little higher boost then go for it.

I mentioned i was putting in a SAFCII, and obviously I'm going to get it tuned with that also not just installing it. this adequate tuning to support 14 pounds of boost?

Also, when you mention supporting mods, does what I've listed pretty much cover everything. Anything else I should consider?

Thanks for the link Rekin, I did read your thread before posting. I'm curious to see how much better the ARC smic is than the r34, if indeed it warrants the extra cost which is substantial.

Regarding trimming the front bar to fit a cooler, with a series 2 front bar, is any trimming visible from outside? for example the 3 little vertical bits of plastic that span over the opening under the licence plate mount... would that still be there or does it need to go to make room for the cooler?

Thanks for everyone's input so far. Much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172328
Share on other sites

i know several people who run it at 16 pounds and are having no dramas at all.

I think most people on these forums tend to be a bit conservative regarding max boost on the 33 turbo. 14 should be safe

people on this forum speak from experience.

load it up at 16psi and you get the following two things.

1. little extra power over running around 12psi

2. a handgrenade when you lean on it often enough

ps. the R34 SMIC will do all you want. if you choose to upgrade the turbo then you can sell the SMIC and buy the FMIC.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172337
Share on other sites

hmmm ok i'm a tad confused. I was under the impression that the limitation of the 33 turbo was it's ceramic wheel. Although it spools up quickly, it will break at high pressures. So what does leaning have to do with the pressure in the turbo? either way the turbo still boosts the same amount doesn't it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172369
Share on other sites

hmmm ok i'm a tad confused. I was under the impression that the limitation of the 33 turbo was it's ceramic wheel. Although it spools up quickly, it will break at high pressures. So what does leaning have to do with the pressure in the turbo? either way the turbo still boosts the same amount doesn't it?

When Wolverine talks about 'leaning on it' he is talking about continually driving the car hard on boost. He is not talking about running the engine lean fueling wise. I would not run a stock R33 turbo beyond 12 PSI or .85 BAR as running anymore boost doesn't result in increased power but rather increased heat whch eventually will kill the turbo.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172436
Share on other sites

i'll re-phrase, "leaning on it" or driving aggressively on the throttle.

heat causes the eventual failure of the ceramic wheel, the harder you push the turbo the more likely you shorten the life. there are countless threads on this failure and the reasons behind it if you are still not sure (or convinced).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3172438
Share on other sites

Remember there are 2 different ARC sidemounts - the 75mm thick and the 105mm thick ones.

There is over 25% increase in volume between the two, so you could imagine there is a signicant difference in power capacity too.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3173782
Share on other sites

my best mate has a series 1 r33 with a fmic. we fitted it ourselves in an afternoon. the only thing that needed modifying was the bar itself and that was a little bit of cutting on the bottom lip and we had to disable and cut sections out of his driving lights. (just to clear the piping) it looks fairly clean as we took our time as cut carefully. if you want more power and wanna go the fmic but dont wanna cut your bar, get a series 2 bar. no cutting required

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172288-smic/#findComment-3173806
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...