Jump to content
SAU Community

Boost Solenoid Mod 0-100 Times

groonsnout
 Share

Recommended Posts

groonsnout Contributor

groonsnout

Posted
Posted

Modded my boost solenoid, So just a quick post with some 0-100 times on my stock S1 RS4. All recorded on a g-tech at night (canberra = cold)

Before mod (stock boost cut until 4500 rpm)

Run 1: 8.28

Run 2: 8.37

Run 3: 8.19

After mod (full boost throughout range)

Run 1: 7.31

Run 2: 7.38

Run 3: 7.29

worth your time!

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172290-boost-solenoid-mod-0-100-times/
Share on other sites
ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

has anyone gone to the effort to extend ( what I beleive ) is an easy mod one step further?

would be good if you could get a 2 way switch to allow you to go between the 2?

Ie .. stock setup - low boost till 4000rpm

then full boost from 0 - redline

could be a good thing to do

groonsnout Contributor

groonsnout

Posted
  • Author
Posted
not worth the effort, leave it at full boost, and control it with your foot. :wub:

Just the standard ground the solenoid so it's open all the time (or just bypass it..) but as far as having a switch for it.. I don't see a lot of point, as it's much more responsive with it fixed, and uses a reasonable amount of less fuel. More midrange = less right foot.

But was good to see a difference in numbers, not just feel. It was mainly off the line where it made the difference. Up to 50 kph or so was HALF the time. I also tried one run with loading up the stall but the brakes couldn't hold it under full throttle.

fun stuff anyway :) I would have done some 0-400m but not a lot of ACT roads where doing 150kph recommended..

:)

groonsnout Contributor

groonsnout

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I don't suppose you could follow this up with some numbers on your fuel economy?

Anywhoo, thanks for sharing the lurve :)

When I did the mod I went from about 390k a tank to 450k a tank, but it's all really down to driving style I guess.. I'm pretty easy on the car, doesn't spend much time above 3500rpm, but doesn't have to now.. before you really had to wring the neck out of it for any sort of performance, so effortless now. Different car! Even feels better down low than my TT 300zx which is 3L and has 2 turbos (manual)

The mod is just in the sticky section under DIY.. I think it's called full boost modification or similar.. 5 mins work..

mitchy_ Grand Master

mitchy_

Posted
Posted

its called rb25 boost solenoid mod i think.

essentially you ground the solenoid, so its always open (the ecu opens it at 4,500rpm, so you have 5psi boost to 4500rpm, then 7 over that)

you can either ground the solenoid, or just rip the thing out and join the 2 hoses (make sure you dont use a joiner that will restrict the hose I.D. otherwise you might get too much boost, ideally use a single piece)

very good, cheap mod to perform on the rb25. :)

leetom Proficient

leetom

Posted
Posted
its called rb25 boost solenoid mod i think.

essentially you ground the solenoid, so its always open (the ecu opens it at 4,500rpm, so you have 5psi boost to 4500rpm, then 7 over that)

you can either ground the solenoid, or just rip the thing out and join the 2 hoses (make sure you dont use a joiner that will restrict the hose I.D. otherwise you might get too much boost, ideally use a single piece)

very good, cheap mod to perform on the rb25. :worship:

why not buy a manual b/c and try ten psi, even better :)

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

mate not a chance in the world anyone would ever notice even if it was illegal...you cut one wire and ground it to the chasis.

the beauty of this mod is it gives you power in the midrange, doesnt affect top end (and therefore should be super safe for the motor). And cost is about 10c...5cm of wire and a eye terminal

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...