Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello peoples!

Im wanting to fit power steering to my mr30 and have no idea as to the parts that i need.

Heres my Q's..

They run a power steering box and not a rack don't they?

Can i put a rack in it? Without any hardcore mods..

Does the box use all the same sort of plumbing a rack does? Reason being im gonna be using an rb30 power

steering pump with the r30 system. Im hoping its all pretty much the same with not many differences..

Any expertise on power steering will be greatly appreciated!!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/172560-power-steering-for-the-r30/
Share on other sites

if you want you can take the whole powersteering system from my Ti wreck,

the only prob is its a real biatch to get it all off... (plus its coated in 24 years of engine dirt shit )

my understanding is the steering box is power assisted, and the rack is standard throughout models

so im sure your existing rack can be used, just bolt up the power steering box and lines and pump etc.

you can have the pump & lines too if you like....

i think th e Rb30 one would fit, bit i'd be talking to a pro about that, as i wouldnt want you to have a failure!!!

thanks for the offer. ill probably take you up on it but gonna make sure i can do what i

want with the rb pump and fittings before i rip it out of the car!

im guessing that a power steering box and a rack would work under the same sort of principle

and that the plumbing for it should be relatively similar if not pretty close to being the same!

Check out the Nissan factory specified line pressure for the R30 power box and the R31 power rack.

Most power steer boxes of the fixed ratio type run line pressures up around 1200 psi, variable ratio boxes are frequently up around 2000 psi but power racks seem to be significantly below 1000 psi.

Mix a power rack pump with a power steer box and you may find unacceptably heavy steering. Mix a power steer box type pump with a power rack and you will blow the seals out of the rack.

Swappimg an R31 rack into an R30 sounds feasible but you're going to need a good engineer to avoid an evil-handling car with lots of bump steer.

You might find that a 280ZX rack is a better fit.

sounds very technical and is exactly what i was afraid of.

Probably be easier if i can adapt the r30 pump to the rb block.

Then i wont have to worry about line pressures and what not.

I was sort of after an easy fit changeover sort of thing.

adapt the r30 pump to the rb block.

Just eyeballed the two setups - an RB30 in VL and an early 280ZX L28 (power box version).

One task will be changing the drive pulley on the L6 type pump to suit the polyrib or flat style belt used on the RB30.

Until both are off the pumps it is impossible to say what is needed but you may be lucky enough that they are interchangeable.

If not it's not difficult to solve, just hand both to a good machine shop with clear instruction that you want one pulley that has the innards of "A" and the outer belt drive of "B" and exactly what offset from either the inner or the outer. face is required.

Some fabrication will then be needed to put the L6 pump in place of the RB pump with the belt lined up (at least that is the case with the samples I have) but again it doesn't appear to be a major job.

You may be best off trying the pump swap first as I'm told that L6 pumps do exist that physically interchange with RB pumps.

If you're lucky it will be easy to get the pump on, then you can sort out the pulley part.

Edited by aarc240

ill have to source an L6 pump and see how different it is to an rb one. I don't think it should be that difficult of a job to attack. I think that the later the model the L6 pump is the more likely it is going to be that it will be easier to interchange with the rb type. Thats what im hoping anyway. I know that the alternator off my L24 can fit on the rb block with the only change needed is the front pulley. Hopefully the power steering pump is the same!

  • 11 months later...

i run an rb30 pump mounted to my rb25 in the r31, if you are running an rb in your r30 then you should have no problem mounting the r31 pump, maybe look at adapting the r31 main cross member the engine sits on (forgot what its called) to fit the r30...

good thinking, not sure why i didn't realise that before! any idea what belt you used to fit it up to the RB25?

rb30 belt from memory but this was 2 years ago now, i have the change out the pump soon as it seems to be leaking so i can compare the belt to an rb30 one i have here.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...