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im down to a qauter of a tank and iv only done 180 kms , mind you i havent really boosted it much . the highest its been hit to would be 3-4 psi , like once or twice overall . what can i do to remedy this problem , a friend told me to get a new o2 sensor . are there any other ideas that anyone has know of or tried?

much appreciated , thanks

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im down to a qauter of a tank and iv only done 180 kms , mind you i havent really boosted it much . the highest its been hit to would be 3-4 psi , like once or twice overall . what can i do to remedy this problem , a friend told me to get a new o2 sensor . are there any other ideas that anyone has know of or tried?

much appreciated , thanks

Get a new o2 sensor. Around 100 bucks from here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=135194

check that the fuel gauge is reading correctly (note how much you fill next time you get petrol)

also i had a problem with the A/C unit being faulty so i just keep the recirculate button on unless im using it

another thing is to clean the aac valve (tutorial on site)

i went from 280 to 400km a tank after doing those things

how many more kms could this give me ?

I too have an R33 S2 GTS-T with 64000 KMs. Mine still has the old (I believe anyway) o2 sensor and I get 420+ KMs to a tank regularly. Mine only has turbo back zorst as a mod. Its also auto so drinks bit more than manual when cruising.

Other things to do which improves fuel economy:

Get a fuel injector cleaner, any auto shop has them.

Check /change your air filter

That should give you better economy.

My car stalls on the spot if AFM is unplugged.

Weird. Mine didn't. It idled a bit higher than normal but consistant, and also on idle your could see black smoke coming out of the exhaust, hence really rich. I forgot to plug it back in after fitting the cooler.

Edited by KeyMaker
Weird. Mine didn't. It idled a bit higher than normal but consistant, and also on idle your could see black smoke coming out of the exhaust, hence really rich. I forgot to plug it back in after fitting the cooler.
Yeah cos when my AFM was playing up (loose solder in the electrical contacts) when I moved the AFM around the car would hunt and then stall depending on which position I had the AFM in 9unsecured without a brace). Then once we unplugged it, the car just stalled on the spot.

if this helps seek more info :

my mods are :

pod filter

turbo back exhaust

bleed valve

fmic

no tuning or moded computers.

i have recently cleaned the afm / ACC valve ... all plugs have been checked . although i am now considering purchasing a new o2 sensor , as this is all im left to direct the problem too . might try injector cleaner .

also sometimes i get a bit of a back fire ... couldnt that be to do with the fuel problem?..

help appreciated - thanks

check that the fuel gauge is reading correctly (note how much you fill next time you get petrol)

also i had a problem with the A/C unit being faulty so i just keep the recirculate button on unless im using it

another thing is to clean the aac valve (tutorial on site)

i went from 280 to 400km a tank after doing those things

Well the ac recirculate button being on does make a difference. I can vouch for it. But not too much i'd say. Around an extra 20-25ks. Thats about it. But looking at yours even that'd be great. Yes the AAC valve cleaning helped me out a bit as well. i was getting 330ks, no super mods, but after doing these things went upto 360 in summer and 380-390 in winter

best way to check if its running rich is to put it on a dyno and check A/F ratios, Best way to have the injectors cleaned is to have them removed from the fuel rail and ultrasonicly cleaned and flow tested. This can be a pain though not only to remove them from the engine but to get them out of the fuel rail as the sealing 'o'-rings have a habbit of growing. One thing you didnt mention was your driving conditions Town/highway, stop start at traffic lights etc. I have ECR33 FMIC HKS pod 3" exhaust increased boost, get on average 400km to a tank. If you have never had your injectors ultrasonicly cleaned might be a good place to start. Check performance shos / workshop in your area to see who has the gear, But make sure you ask them if they have the equipment to flow test your side feed injectors as some places dont. Anotherthing to check would be the catalytic converter, when the car is complianced this is replaced usually with the cheapest one available, they usually dont flow to well and the honeycomb inside collapses and restricts flow even more, robbing you of power and making you put your foot down further on the throttle using more fuel. hope this helps. :)

Well the ac recirculate button being on does make a difference. I can vouch for it. But not too much i'd say. Around an extra 20-25ks. Thats about it. But looking at yours even that'd be great. Yes the AAC valve cleaning helped me out a bit as well. i was getting 330ks, no super mods, but after doing these things went upto 360 in summer and 380-390 in winter

Ha? You mean the closed air vents button? From what I know it only just blocks the air vents, it doesnt drain any energy (recycles the cabin air). I usually have it on in the city and open it up in the country area where the air is fresh.

Ha? You mean the closed air vents button? From what I know it only just blocks the air vents, it doesnt drain any energy (recycles the cabin air). I usually have it on in the city and open it up in the country area where the air is fresh.

AAC = Auxiliary Air Control

the valve is located on the plenum and is not related to the air conditioner.

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