Pfc Tuning

[Primordial]

I've got a situation where if I hold WOT from 3000rpm to redline in 2nd gear on a FLAT surface, i get max about 35 knock.

However when heading up a very steep hill, doing the same as above i get 60-80 knock and obviously the engine light flashing at me

Is there a simple way to fix this? Please bear with me as I'm relatively new to PFC tuning!

Cheers

[moonus]

i had the same problem, as soon as i knocked it back down a gear knock would reduce...never got around to getting it checked out but i presume ur tune maybe needs a bit of work?

[R31Nismoid]

Use the map trace, find out what cells its hitting when its 60-80 and just pull timing out of it.

About all there is to it

[Primordial]

Thanks for the reply!

Im not sure what you mean though. How can you see the knock levels when you are on the map trace screen? What mode does the map trace need to be in when doing the run? There is a mode that just floats the cursor around the screen, and one that looks like it traces the line across the screen as rpm/load increases.

Apologies for getting back to basics, as I said - I'm a noob when it comes to the tuning side of PFC

[sicrb25]

Put it on the dyno and get a good tune.

[Primordial]

It's been on the dyno for a tune, and then once for a touch up. It's only one small condition where it knocks so it's hardly worth paying money for it if I can fix it quickly with the help of forum members

[djr81]

Thanks for the reply!

Im not sure what you mean though. How can you see the knock levels when you are on the map trace screen? What mode does the map trace need to be in when doing the run? There is a mode that just floats the cursor around the screen, and one that looks like it traces the line across the screen as rpm/load increases.

Apologies for getting back to basics, as I said - I'm a noob when it comes to the tuning side of PFC

Short answer: you can't.

But you can see the light on the dashboard.

"There is a mode that just floats the cursor around the screen"

Which is what you are after.

Find the cell eg 10 across & 15 down that the cursor is in when the dash light flashes.

Then go back through all the menus to find your ignition value for that coordinate. Suck a degree or two out of it. Problem should go away or reduce if you have the right cell.

A word of warning. It is best to write down all the fuel & ignition values BEFORE you start. Then you can always put things back to normal.

A better solution is to take it to a dyno & get it done properly. Particularly if it is WOT because you can't diagnose fueling issues on the road.

[paulr33]

covered in great detail in the powerfc faq (in my sig)

spend some time reading and learn how to debug knocking and tune it out yourself

its pretty easy and doesnt take long. it even lists each step and what you need to do it

(the link is in my sig)

[Primordial]

excellent.. thanks guys.

[paulr33]

take a copy to the show and shine and accept donations on my behalf

then pay pal the total amount to my account, thanks

[Guilt-Toy]

if i do make it to the show and shine i can take some timing out of it for you if you want. this is a very common problem

[Primordial]

if i do make it to the show and shine i can take some timing out of it for you if you want. this is a very common problem

Awesome, thanks Anthony. If i'll see you there i'll pull you aside

[Primordial]

take a copy to the show and shine and accept donations on my behalf

then pay pal the total amount to my account, thanks

You should set up a paypal site which allows people to donate to say thanks!

[Mickyb]

Just a quick question regarding knock, rather ask it here than make a new thread. I had my power fc tuned a month or so ago when the car had primarily Shell V-Power racing (100 octane) in the tank and the knock levels would not go over 30 at any stage.

Now that Shell have altered their pricing strategy and V-Power racing is set at 154.9 I have been putting V-Power (98 octane) in it , my problem is that the knock levels have gone way up when it is under load, I actually hit 115 in the cold the other night.

Obviously I have been babying the car since then but should I pay for a whole new tune from my tuner ($300) and should an octane drop of only 2 effect it that much? It's really shitting me as I can't believe a lazy 2 octane could make such a difference. I had a look at paulr33's PFC guide and while being informative, I know jack shit about reading the map thing and don't want to make things worse by playing around with the timing.

Any advice or thoughts would be appreciated even if they are just "take it back to the bloke who tuned it."

Thanks

[BAMR33]

You won't have to pay for another full tune, if your tuner is priced fair he should be able to adjust the tune for under $100

Edited June 17, 2007 by BAMR33

[BAMR33]

Or you could add an octane booster i.e. toluene, water/meth injection etc.

[BAMR33]

Or slightly retard your ignition timing by turning the CAS clockwise until pinging goes away, taking for a test drive between each movement of the cas.

Edited June 17, 2007 by BAMR33

[BAMR33]

Or reduce your boost level, or return to using V-Power 100.

...Yes I am bored

[Guilt-Toy]

You could probly just leave the tune how it is. under normal driving conditions (if your not going to go into boost) dont worry about it. IF you do plan on giving it some stick then go into setting and then inj/ign and set the timing to -5 deg. This will take out 5deg of timing from the WHOLE map.

Remember once you turn the car off the setting will be reset back to 0 so you will need to do it again next time you plan on giving it some stick.

if you have troubles finding it and need someone to walk you through it over the phone pm me

Just a quick question regarding knock, rather ask it here than make a new thread. I had my power fc tuned a month or so ago when the car had primarily Shell V-Power racing (100 octane) in the tank and the knock levels would not go over 30 at any stage.

Now that Shell have altered their pricing strategy and V-Power racing is set at 154.9 I have been putting V-Power (98 octane) in it , my problem is that the knock levels have gone way up when it is under load, I actually hit 115 in the cold the other night.

Obviously I have been babying the car since then but should I pay for a whole new tune from my tuner ($300) and should an octane drop of only 2 effect it that much? It's really shitting me as I can't believe a lazy 2 octane could make such a difference. I had a look at paulr33's PFC guide and while being informative, I know jack shit about reading the map thing and don't want to make things worse by playing around with the timing.

Any advice or thoughts would be appreciated even if they are just "take it back to the bloke who tuned it."

Thanks

[Mickyb]

Thanks mate, I'll ring my mechanic today and take it in.