Iridium Vs. Platinum Plugs

[_x_FiReStOrM_x_]

My true answer to this is, buy the factory spec plug because its already been engineered for you. you should not have a problem using a recommended platinum/iridium plug, in fact why dont you email NGK to see what they list for your car.

Factory spec plugs were made for factory spec cars. Most of our cars here are not stock.

As you run higher boost, combustion chamber pressures rise. A higher pressure/compression requires a greater spark to completely ignite and burn the mixture. Which is why even something as simple as advancing ignition timing on some engines may require higher performance ignition gear.

I thoroughly agree about the 'suiting correct plug, to correct application' comment...

Edited June 20, 2007 by _x_FiReStOrM_x_

[nsm034]

the coppers i run aren't 10 for 6 jobies they cost about $45 for the set i think. i've been running them for about 4000kms good as gold and had the power fc put on during that period. The plugs are R5671A-8 . Cam, the bloke that put me onto them tunes cars and runs the same plugs in his brothers gtr i think its sau33 number plates. But hey do what you want i'm only speaking from my experience.

[superspit]

the coppers i run aren't 10 for 6 jobies they cost about $45 for the set i think. i've been running them for about 4000kms good as gold and had the power fc put on during that period. The plugs are R5671A-8 . Cam, the bloke that put me onto them tunes cars and runs the same plugs in his brothers gtr i think its sau33 number plates. But hey do what you want i'm only speaking from my experience.

...that's a fair call nsm034....

[mad082]

i used ngk copper plugs. bcpr6es was the part number. $4 each. i pulled them out after 10,000kms and they hadn't started miss firing yet, and that was running 14psi with stock coils. the plugs i had in there before the coppers were iridiums, i pulled them out at about 20,000kms old cause they were miss firing. and they were gapped at 0.8mm. with iridiums costing about $120 for a set of 6 and coppers costing $24 for a set i will stick with the coppers. just change them at 10,000kms (every second service). and it isn't a case of the service taking any longer than normal, becuase i don't have the coil pack cover on (leave it off so the coil packs don't get as hot) and i can do it without taking off the cooler piping. i just take each coil pack out 1 by 1 and change the plug and put the coil pack back in.

and as i said the service doesn't take any longer because i take the oil drain bolt out, do the first few plugs, take the oil filter off, do the last few plugs. by which time the last bit of oil is draining out of the motor so it is time to put the filter on, put the oil and and we are done. it saves sitting around doing nothing waiting for the oil to drain out.

also, the thread starter has a non-turbo, so the plugs he should be running will be different to most of us. he may have gotten the plugs for a turbo car, which may be different to what he needs, and that may be the cause of the problem.

[superspit]

i used ngk copper plugs. bcpr6es was the part number. $4 each. i pulled them out after 10,000kms and they hadn't started miss firing yet, and that was running 14psi with stock coils. the plugs i had in there before the coppers were iridiums, i pulled them out at about 20,000kms old cause they were miss firing. and they were gapped at 0.8mm. with iridiums costing about $120 for a set of 6 and coppers costing $24 for a set i will stick with the coppers. just change them at 10,000kms (every second service). and it isn't a case of the service taking any longer than normal, becuase i don't have the coil pack cover on (leave it off so the coil packs don't get as hot) and i can do it without taking off the cooler piping. i just take each coil pack out 1 by 1 and change the plug and put the coil pack back in.

and as i said the service doesn't take any longer because i take the oil drain bolt out, do the first few plugs, take the oil filter off, do the last few plugs. by which time the last bit of oil is draining out of the motor so it is time to put the filter on, put the oil and and we are done. it saves sitting around doing nothing waiting for the oil to drain out.

also, the thread starter has a non-turbo, so the plugs he should be running will be different to most of us. he may have gotten the plugs for a turbo car, which may be different to what he needs, and that may be the cause of the problem.

oh..!..I have to admit I must've overlooked the thread starter had the N/A version....ok...koool...

[subzeroR33]

I was running platinums heat range 5 gap-1.1. They were shit definately the wrong application for my car but that is what the factory states. They were re-gapped at .8 and that made a difference, changed at around 8000km black as and miss firing in the end.

Like the above post stated, most of our cars are modified to the degree of having to find the right plug to suit.

I now run a BKR7E Vgroove plug, runs fine now.

[Topaz]

Nobody really advertises performance copper plugs. Do you guys just use Supercheap/Repro/Auto One plugs?

I ust found that NGK, Denso, Bosch and some others manufacture copper plugs in Australia. What are some model numbers? R32 GTR?

[jeffworld2]

i have an r33 gtst, with splitfires now but as a preventative measure not because of any problems.

i have run bcpr6es-11, bkr6e, etc etc. the NGK coppers from repco etc. are cheap as chips and go into a lot of hi powered lines. I was under the impression they wear out uicker because they work better (put VERY simply).

if you want to have a slight edge on a dyno for example.. one of the tricks is to use the cheapest crap coppers u can find and just replace them afterwards. Iridiums/platinums are a trade off like every thing else in your modified car, u get more life through less performance. there is no upgrade for computers or tv's that say "now featuring Platinum wire insterad of coper/nickel silver!! feel the difference!"

one of the only things better at conducting electricity than copper is gold, and i guarantee you will not find gold plugs that are supposed to last more than 10 000 k's. the highly conductive metals are softer, and the only way platinums can attempt to equal the performance of coppers is through crazy tip designs, which are made possible by the stronger metals.

on an na or stockish to mild turbo there may not be any difference between the plugs operation. if you cant notice, y not use the cheaper ones?

[jeffworld2]

topaz, bcpr6e's from anywhere should suit most r33's. If they offer them with a -11 after that code, they are gapped at 1.1, if they offer just bcpr6e it is gapped at .8. same goes for most ngk plugs

[zebra]

Interesting read.

On to the original topic, my car was missing at idle and i found that the gaps were too small....now at .85mm it runs like a dream....oh yeah they are NGK platinums

Andrew