Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ahh well at least its in a nissan box not an ntk one. how much did they rape you for that?

there are aftermarket ones with the correct plugs that are direct plug in replacements.

:) its say NGK on the actual sensor...........got it for $168 something with GST, I asked here several times if those NTK or Falcon ones gona be ok for my GTS4 non-turbo, the answer was yes, when i calld NGK directly about this, they advised me it wont be 100% accurate so asked to get original one ;) was paranoid about getting NTK after that

well I think I should have gone for NTK one tho (like$70 i think),,, oooh well

Note- got a OEM oil filter from NIssan while I was there, well they are not really genuine I guess, its made in Thailand.............I love stuff from Japan :)

Hey all. Just wondering if there is a part number for the tacho modual in a R33gtst series 1 1995 dash cluster. I want to replace the tacho unit in my cluster. Trying to work out if cheaper to buy new modual part (which i doubt), or just buy a second hand cluster n mix n match parts?

Can you attually just buy the tacho gauge?

part No# 24825 21u01. tacho meter only

hey guys. Need help with part numbers.

I have checked everywhere in nissan fast i can think of and havent had any luck.

Its the metal thing covered in plastic that goes on the doors just below where the window starts (see picture....the thing circled in yellow)

post-16070-1205716753_thumb.jpg

For 1990 r32 gtst

vin HCR32064384

Need the part number for each side.

cheers guys

looks like 80820-04U00(RH) and 80821-04U00 (LH) "moulding assy front door outside"

there is another part 80834-04U00 (RH) and 80835-04U00 (LH) "weatherstrip-front door inside". I think that is between the trim and the window though.

looks like 80820-04U00(RH) and 80821-04U00 (LH) "moulding assy front door outside"

there is another part 80834-04U00 (RH) and 80835-04U00 (LH) "weatherstrip-front door inside". I think that is between the trim and the window though.

Looks like 80820-04U00(RH) and 80821-04U00 (LH) "moulding assy front door outside"

Thats the one. Awesome work Duncan....cant believe i missed it :(

  • 2 weeks later...

i know this will be hard to find i would imagine but im after the part no. for a brake master cylinder from a wgnc34 autech 260rs stagea series 1 if possible (i think s1, and s2 is the same)?

i have 34 brembos on the stagea and need a brake booster to suit but i found out 33gtr and 34gtr use different masters i cant see why if they are the same brakes? hopefully the autech one will be the correct one.

thanks

If you have the r34 brembos fitted, wouldnt you be able to use the r34 brake master cylinder? im havin a little difficulty with fast so i cant check right now but im workin on it now. somebody else out there with fast might be able to post up the number before i get around to it.

"it would be easier and cheaper to get after market 1s. google r34 eyelids or use the search button at the top here."

tried the search and majority of em are DIY or from carmate. AFAIK, aftermarket ones are approx 120ish after paiting whereas the nismo ones are around150++. Would rather get nismo in this case

Do you know where can we get nismo eyelids?

If you have the r34 brembos fitted, wouldnt you be able to use the r34 brake master cylinder? im havin a little difficulty with fast so i cant check right now but im workin on it now. somebody else out there with fast might be able to post up the number before i get around to it.

thanks mate, i am just wanting to make sure the brake lines all line up with the 34 master thats all, its rather expensive to get it wrong ($300 or so), i cant see why the 34 and 33 would be different?

"it would be easier and cheaper to get after market 1s. google r34 eyelids or use the search button at the top here."

tried the search and majority of em are DIY or from carmate. AFAIK, aftermarket ones are approx 120ish after paiting whereas the nismo ones are around150++. Would rather get nismo in this case

Do you know where can we get nismo eyelids?

When i can get fast working ill have a look for a part number. not promising that it will be there though. you could try calling a Nissan dealership and speaking with spare parts. They may be able to help you. If not, try searching yahoo japan auctions. there is several ways to buy from there including Slidewize performance I bought from Zac a few times. always delivered what ive bought. Theres other companies out there that can buy from the auctions on your behalf.

thanks mate, i am just wanting to make sure the brake lines all line up with the 34 master thats all, its rather expensive to get it wrong ($300 or so), i cant see why the 34 and 33 would be different?

Yea expenses suck. There could be numerous master cylinders that will line up. Maybe best speaking with a mechanic. You might be able to find a cheaper alternative to the R34 1. Ill try to find the number when fast is working.

i know this will be hard to find i would imagine but im after the part no. for a brake master cylinder from a wgnc34 autech 260rs stagea series 1 if possible (i think s1, and s2 is the same)?

i have 34 brembos on the stagea and need a brake booster to suit but i found out 33gtr and 34gtr use different masters i cant see why if they are the same brakes? hopefully the autech one will be the correct one.

thanks

Sorry for the inconvenience but its been ages since ive used fast and i have actually never looked for stageas before. can you make it easier and supply me with a vin number? that saves me a lot of stuffing around

When i can get fast working ill have a look for a part number. not promising that it will be there though. you could try calling a Nissan dealership and speaking with spare parts. They may be able to help you. If not, try searching yahoo japan auctions. there is several ways to buy from there including Slidewize performance I bought from Zac a few times. always delivered what ive bought. Theres other companies out there that can buy from the auctions on your behalf.

ive had a look but i haven't been able to find it. maybe someone else that has fast would be able to track it down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...