Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

I'm looking for the parts number for R34 2000 GTT.

Exactly is the black plastic molding surround the shifter. I need it in black and for a manuel R34 GTT car. Could you tell me what is the part number.

By the way did you sell the software?

I got the Number : 96935-AA410 But is for GTR with brushed bronze metallic finish (package with the clamp & boot)

See pics to refer : http://forums.montrealracing.com/picture.p...;pictureid=1357

Model: R34 GTT Manuel

Year: 2001

Thanks for you help

Hi!

I'm looking for the parts number for R34 2000 GTT.

Exactly is the black plastic molding surround the shifter. I need it in black and for a manuel R34 GTT car. Could you tell me what is the part number.

By the way did you sell the software?

I got the Number : 96935-AA410 But is for GTR with brushed bronze metallic finish (package with the clamp & boot)

See pics to refer : http://forums.montrealracing.com/picture.p...;pictureid=1357

Model: R34 GTT Manuel

Year: 2001

Thanks for you help

Part No. for 2001 Manual R34 is 96935-AB000

Could I get some part numbers please, all the numbers I have found conflict..

Car is a R32 GTR with VIN: BNR32-003362

I need part numbers for:

1. Rear boot badge 'GTR' for the 'black pearl' colour. (the colour code is 732) I had this part number "84896-05U05", but I dont know what colour its for..

2. Driver's and Passenger's outer window seals, long strip on the outside of the doors.

3. N1 front bumper vents both left and right, not sure if they are colour specific but in the black pearl #732 if possible. the only part number I could find is "62256-06U00 ‘GRILLE-FR BPR,R" but I think that is only for the right hand side vent in gun metal grey...

4. The engine coil pack cover's badge, the "Nissan Twin Cam 24 Valve" one

post-19425-1232882306_thumb.jpg

thanks

ok the N1 bumper vents all have the same part number and the 1 u have is correct.

The door seals. the upper seals are fixed to the body and the lower seals are fixed to the doors. now i can tell you the lower door seals as i still have mine in the bags they came in.

I have 80831-04U10 RH and 80830-04U10 LH but i think the seal you are after is different. you want the hard outer seal correct?

apart from that I cant help with any others. i should pull my finger out and reinstall FAST...

ok the N1 bumper vents all have the same part number and the 1 u have is correct.

The door seals. the upper seals are fixed to the body and the lower seals are fixed to the doors. now i can tell you the lower door seals as i still have mine in the bags they came in.

I have 80831-04U10 RH and 80830-04U10 LH but i think the seal you are after is different. you want the hard outer seal correct?

apart from that I cant help with any others. i should pull my finger out and reinstall FAST...

thanks mate,

yeah the hard outer seal on the door, mines all faded and worn from polishing etc.

The only part numbers I found were:

RETAINER-WEATHERSTRIP,RH = 76870-04U00-

RETAINER-WEATHERSTRIP,LH = 76871-04U00-

I have just been going through yahoo auctions in Japan and looking for brand new oem items for sale and getting the numbers off the pics :D

lol yea i did that before i got FAST. Always good to shop around. you can get them from local Nissan dealerships if you dont wanna use the auctions. Good if you get the wrong part as you just take it back. Sometimes more expensive though. 2 dealerships down here in my area have massive price differences also so it pays to ring around.

i needed to replace my mode door actuator (motor that controls the vent positions for the climate control.) it was cheaper to buy it from my local dealership then it was to get from the auctions. yet my N1 bumper pods were cheaper from the auctions and are already colour coded.

I got Nissan FAST last night and found some part #'s today.

might help others.

"Rear Truck Emblem" GTR Badge on the boot = 84896-05U05

"Moulding Assey Front Door Outside Right" hard outer seal on the door = 80820-04U00 or 80820-04U03

"Moulding Assey Front Door Outside Left" hard outer seal on the door = 80821-04U00 or 80821-04U03

"Label Rocker Cover" Twin Cam 24 Valve Badge on the coil pack cover = 13290-05U00

"Front Finisher Fascia Right" (N1 Vent RHS) = 62256-06U00

"Front Finisher Fascia Left" (N1 Vent LHS) = 62257-06U00

  • 1 month later...
Hi Neil, can i request the part number for the R34 GTR MFD HARNES (Wiring loom) that plugs into the back of the MFD

thanks

David

I think i found the part number, just need a confirmation please

24036-AA300 or it may be 24036-AA301 = $200 from Nissan Dealer imported

Hey guys,

can anyone get me a part number for an O2 sensor for a R32 GTR, front and back ones?

i know theyre a little different because one is an oval style clip and the other is square shaped.

cheers,

BREZZA

I think i found the part number, just need a confirmation please

24036-AA300 or it may be 24036-AA301 = $200 from Nissan Dealer imported

sorry bout late reply computer issue's.

yeah them two part's part No. are a very good chance. there are a different part No. to the R34 GT-T models so i am saying that that is them. may be worth getting your local dealer to send a message on the nissan parts query line to find out the differance between the two

Hey guys,

can anyone get me a part number for an O2 sensor for a R32 GTR, front and back ones?

i know theyre a little different because one is an oval style clip and the other is square shaped.

cheers,

BREZZA

Part No. 22690-05U21 & 22690-05U22

Thanks for your help neofenrir34!

I got another one for you..

I'm searching for the bulb socket for the side indicators (repeaters). Just the socket..

for : R34 2001 GTR MT

Thanks dude

Part No. 26244-72B00

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...