Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all.

happened yesterday and today.. theres something howling when driving for the first 2-3 mins.

i normally warm my car up for about 2-4 mins.. the oil pressure drops from about 7bar to 4 bar and th revs dropped a bit.. like normal.. and i drove off.. careful not the get the boost gauge newhere close to 0.. shift at 1500 or so..

yesterday it howled abit more.. cos i didnt let it warm up.. only like 2 min warmup. this morning was kinda intermittant cos i let it warm up for jst about 4 min.

im sure its not a leak as we tightened the fmic piping up properly.. i double checked it when i got home on the day of the install.

it boosts fine tho.. no lag etc.. only happens when the cars coldish..

any input on what the noise could be?? kinda has me worried as the cars only done 85xxx k's and im the first owner.

My mods:

Full exh

6*3*80 HDi FMIC

Apexi Powerflow

Factory boost solenoid (low - 7, high - 12-14psi) NOTE: i HARDLY use high boost, if i do its only for a few seconds then flick it back to low.

i hardly boost my car. no really.. i hope its not my turbo but something tells me it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173073-turbo-howling/
Share on other sites

NOTE: it is also getting very cold here in auckland. im talking below 10degrees cel. it must hav been about 2-5 degrees yesterday and this morning..

my mate thinks its the vortex thing happening with my powerflow filter? going to check for shaft play after work today. fingers crossed!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173073-turbo-howling/#findComment-3183070
Share on other sites

Howling probably isnt the best description... hmm..

Does it do it on idle if you rev it?

Or only under load?

Where is the noise coming from, right/left side of the enginebay?

Anything you might be able to provide will make it easier.

It sounds like a leaky cooler pipe to me, but everyone describes noises differently :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173073-turbo-howling/#findComment-3183225
Share on other sites

i vote for exhaust gasket leak, without knowing the definition of "howling".

common issue with the lock tabs not working or breaking on the turbo flange bolts. But some answers to R31Nismoid's question will help the diagnoses.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173073-turbo-howling/#findComment-3183824
Share on other sites

cheers so far guys.

it only happens when i drive it in the cold.. its been around 2-5 degrees here lately so blooody cold.. thats it.. only for a few mins.. i checked all the fmic piping again last night.. all tight..

i doubt its the exh mani tho cos i never touched it..

i checked the turbo wheels for shaft play and it seemed sweet.. no play at all.. to be oversensitive, id say the bearings were a weee bit noisy but thats it.. i cud hear it when i spun the wheels with my fingers.. it boosts fine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173073-turbo-howling/#findComment-3184245
Share on other sites

+3 to turbo gasket leak.. after putting my big front pipe on and having to perform some percussive maintenance on the dump pipe bolts.. take car for drive at over 5000rpm it sounded like there was a banshee under my bonnet. Tightened all turbo>manifold bolts and the banshee died :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173073-turbo-howling/#findComment-3184866
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...