Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys i have a r33 gts-t this is my problem, When i em in high rev's any wher between 5 to 7,000 my car starts to jerk and lose power. i know it could be hundreds of things but i want to know what you guys think it could be and if this has happend to any one else. THANKS IF YOU CAN HELP AND GIVE ME SOME FEED BACK

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173317-whats-going-on-with-my-r33/
Share on other sites

hi guys i have a r33 gts-t this is my problem, When i em in high rev's any wher between 5 to 7,000 my car starts to jerk and lose power. i know it could be hundreds of things but i want to know what you guys think it could be and if this has happend to any one else. THANKS IF YOU CAN HELP AND GIVE ME SOME FEED BACK

Could be faulty AFM. Swap over if u have access, if not then resolderthe electrical contacts. Also check your coil packs.

Also if you have a pod filter, unsecured, get a CAI box or replace it withyour stock air box as this is what caused your problem with AFM.

99% chance it will be your ignition coils shorting out wich is a VERY common problem on the RB25DET engines

Quick test, take cover off the coils (black cover on cylinder head).. one way You could check them is to start engine and try to look for sparks whils reving and in the dark, But for mine the best way to diagnose if they are faulty (shorting out) is to give them a good spray with Inox (can be brought from bigw/ boating store etc) make sure you coat them well!.. than take the car for a good hard run and ill just about bet that you will no longer have the missing above 4500rpm, however this is not a permament fix.. it might last a few weeks max

The inox is insulating the parts of the coil that were beforehand leaking electricial current (shorting out) causing your engine to miss at the higher boost setting wich comes in at about 4500rpm from memory

If the coils are your probem there are ten thousand pages on here about how you can fix them or you can buy splitfire aftermarket ones wich is what some people do but your looking up to $1000.. i thing Sliding performance has a good deal on them atm for about $5/600

Dave

Edited by r33freely

You can check your coilpacks very easily. Remove the plastic cover over them. Then go for a 'spirited' drive at night when it's dark. Try to recreate the situation where the engine does its bad thing. Then pull over and pop the hood and stick your head in over the packs. I had bad packs, and when I did this, I could clearly see the spark arcing on 3 or 4 out of 6. Bought new packs, and 100% fixed.

Just easy to check this first since it's such a common thing in 'lines.

  • 2 weeks later...
Just to let us know my car is stock all it has is a front mount and a pod filter

I had the same prob last week, it mostly occured when dropping down in gears on the freeway. it was my coil packs i took em out painted them with nail polish , it fixd them for now, i dare say coil packs are most prob next on my shopping list...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...