Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys maybe you could shed some light for me, i recently had to change my clutch fan on my r33 s1, i never had a problem with the fan hitting my custom cooler piping, but as soon as i changed the fan i cant rev over 5000 otherwise it hits! were there different fans for the skyline - or do you think there was a different fan used from the beggining? im stumped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173691-r33-gtst-clutch-fan/
Share on other sites

just a thought..

when you got your custom cooler installed did they/you have to cut your fan down a little?? had to be done to mine, and

most people cut it.

compare the new one to the old one, and if the new ones bigger, then just give it a lil trim.

Edited by jake33

wont effect heatwise and air too much, i mean obviously your cutting the fan down so yeah its not gonna inmprove, but it wont affect much at all. no change in factory gauge temp for me.

took some pics to give you an idea of what a workshop did for me. i just got a cooler kit. not really custom piping. just draw mark up some even cutting lines for each fan blade and use any type of tool that would cut through the plastic, i.e hacksaw

hope it helps

post-35246-1182480072_thumb.jpg

post-35246-1182480091_thumb.jpg

Edited by jake33
wont effect heatwise and air too much, i mean obviously your cutting the fan down so yeah its not gonna inmprove, but it wont affect much at all. no change in factory gauge temp for me.

took some pics to give you an idea of what a workshop did for me. i just got a cooler kit. not really custom piping. just draw mark up some even cutting lines for each fan blade and use any type of tool that would cut through the plastic, i.e hacksaw

hope it helps

+1. i just made a template up and marked each blade the same then just nipped them off with a saw. as the picture shows, you only have to take off the back corner.

Doesn't shaving the fan blades end up affecting your water pump? Unless you get it done professionally and its rebalanced.

My dad reckoned that it wears the water pump out quicker as the bearing isn't balanced and cavitates or something - could of been a scare tactic to stop me putting the FMIC in though... although he had the last laugh when I indeed replaced the water pump 30,000km later..... I still claim its a coincidence but saw an excuse to promptly mod further and put a forward facing plenum and a new clutch fan on !

Knowing dad though he was prolly right! But if he is wrong puhlease tell me!

Doesn't shaving the fan blades end up affecting your water pump? Unless you get it done professionally and its rebalanced.

My dad reckoned that it wears the water pump out quicker as the bearing isn't balanced and cavitates or something - could of been a scare tactic to stop me

it'd definately wear the bearing out quicker, but cavitation is caused by spinning the pump impeller too fast.

it'd definately wear the bearing out quicker, but cavitation is caused by spinning the pump impeller too fast.
.

Damn ok.... yeah I wasn't sure if he said cavitate or something else... meh... he is always right, I hate having a mechanic for a dad sometimes!

:cheers:

By "freely", it probably won't spin when you let go, but it shouldn't take much effort to rotate it.

It'll be making a very loud wind/whooshing noise if it's completely locked up. (like the first 5 minutes after turning your car on in the morning)

yeah when the original fan died - my skyline sounded like an XD falcon....i think im going to chop the baldes a little - also is it right that the blades sort of expand when the blade spins - i must sound like a real loser but im just confused by the whole thing.

Highly unlikely dude.

More likely if it only hits under load, that your engine mount on the torque side is stuffed, and the motor lifts up and hits the piping. The piping probably doesn't move from the turbo because of some silicone joiner taking the flex.

That's a loooong shot, but I don't see why it's not possible?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...