Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no no, a 33R is the go....

seems VERY strange that they wrote it off hey... VERY strange!

maybe ask them how much to buy the wreck ? you get your 37k back, and buy the wreck for maybe 10-15.. instant profit!!

then sell it and buy a 34R with extra cash from your old lady!

Hehehe Strich9ine , I won't bother getting the wreck, if i have to repair it , It will cost me 18k, that's hell lot , I better get other car w/o accident history.

Yeah it takes them around 2 weeks and there is no sign of the parts coming from japan, and it's hell exp to repair r34, I wonder why.

  • 3 weeks later...

Updating the thread, around 2 weeks gonna finish :)

The guy offered me to paint the rest of the body for 900 is it abit expensive? roof, right hand panel , door, left hand part ( on top of the window part)

If the price is cheap i'll go with it to make my car mint

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...