Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i've been looking for an r32 gtr for a while now n ive seen a few differences in the compression ratings for some cars, i dont really know much about compression rating but im guessing its got to do with the amount of pressue the engine can with stand maybe? but anyway im guessing higher is better, ive seen cars ratings from 140-150 so just wondering what is a good rating and what is bad?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173992-compression/
Share on other sites

i've been looking for an r32 gtr for a while now n ive seen a few differences in the compression ratings for some cars, i dont really know much about compression rating but im guessing its got to do with the amount of pressue the engine can with stand maybe? but anyway im guessing higher is better, ive seen cars ratings from 140-150 so just wondering what is a good rating and what is bad?

a consistant one. anything that reads simiular pressures through all 6 is good. obviously excessively low would be you'd never come across a very low reading that is consistant throughout anyway.

Edited by deant1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173992-compression/#findComment-3195283
Share on other sites

up to 15psi variance from the highest to the lowest is acceptable. 5-10 psi variance is 'desirable' though.

figures above 135psi for the lowest is important. expect a healthy engine to be around 14-150 and variance of not more than 10 from lowest to highest. don't worry too much about the outright numbers as peoples test procedures are not always the same (hot engine V cold engine, strong battery? strong starter? how much throttle?, type of gauge?, how many cranks? etc) and all those things will affect the figures.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173992-compression/#findComment-3195309
Share on other sites

Could anyone hazard a guess, as to how much of a difference testing a cold motor would have on results?

I tested an RB26 that hadn't been started in 4 months... needless to say, the results were disgraceful, with lowest 125PSI, highest 140PSI.

Should I stop worrying and wait till i can test again when hot and oiled?

Edit: Grew another testicle... tough now, for news either way

M

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173992-compression/#findComment-3198740
Share on other sites

u can go to a mechanic, or buy the gauge from auto one/repco/any tool sellers. i think u can buy a kit from the brand ABW for around the 50-100 mark. lets face it, it'll probably be used in the future. im a mechanic, and had to use mine when my timing belt tens. pulley gave way.

if the engines got slightly low compression, squirt a little oil in the cylinder, if the pressure comes up, the rings will need replacing. if not, it'll cost more...

to test, remove all spark plugs, screw in gauge, and let crank for aprox. 4 times. dont 4get to disconnect the coil packs.

hope this helped.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173992-compression/#findComment-3202968
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...