Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Scott , im Chris i met you a couple of times, i had a 33 sedan.I think your best bet would to go a steam pipe custom manifold ( i had one on my car)The stainless ones seem to be weak, and doesnt last as long and other various reasons.And for your dump pipe same deal get who ever makes your manifold get them to make you a dump pipe depending on what turbo you are running.

Hey Scott , im Chris i met you a couple of times, i had a 33 sedan.I think your best bet would to go a steam pipe custom manifold ( i had one on my car)The stainless ones seem to be weak, and doesnt last as long and other various reasons.And for your dump pipe same deal get who ever makes your manifold get them to make you a dump pipe depending on what turbo you are running.

Hey thanks for your reply Chris, your username is familiar but cant put a face to it. Been that long since ive driven the car (just got painted etc, been nearly year since its been out). Thanks for your input, steam pipe seems definately the way to go. What price you looking at for steam pipe? With the stainless are they all not worthy or is there some decent value for money ones?

Noticed you said had the sedan. Remember seeing it up for sale i believe, hope you got decent price!!!! Was very nice car, I am trying to sell my wifes 33 sedan but at the price they are going for, looks like its worth more to us to keep it!!

as was said before get a custom made one from steam pipe, the big issues with stainless is that all of the cheaper ones are made from thin steel which cracks, also the way a turbo works in regards to spool up is that it requires air flow and heat to make the turbo spin up, so you may find that with a stainless manifold you will loose soem response from the turbo as stainless is no good at retaining heat

as was said before get a custom made one from steam pipe, the big issues with stainless is that all of the cheaper ones are made from thin steel which cracks, also the way a turbo works in regards to spool up is that it requires air flow and heat to make the turbo spin up, so you may find that with a stainless manifold you will loose soem response from the turbo as stainless is no good at retaining heat

yes it does happen.. my 180 has a SS bunch of bananas no cracking. it depends on what reinforcment has been welded onto the manifold. bracing is essential. also due to the thinner walls on SS it loses heat quicker than a cast or steam pipe. still good.. steam pipe is a good option mate.. but exy

My stock manifold is working well with my 3076R turbo

Bragging are we andy..??? lol

also in regards to dump pipes.. i like to use SS split dumps that preferable merge below at the elbow.. R334door im pretty sure u have one like that cause i was looking under ur car when doin ur FMIC and thought thats a neat bit of kit.

Bragging are we andy..??? lol

Yeah I love bragging its my style

Just saying that the stock manifold isnt as crap as every one thinks it is, I wouldnt bother changing it unless the turbo didnt physically fit anymore

And as Dano said look to HKS Cast or extrude honing (pending turbo size), both flow around 20% more than stock

post-21318-1183090086_thumb.jpg

Yeah I love bragging its my style

Just saying that the stock manifold isnt as crap as every one thinks it is, I wouldnt bother changing it unless the turbo didnt physically fit anymore

And as Dano said look to HKS Cast or extrude honing (pending turbo size), both flow around 20% more than stock

haha i knw ur not bragging..

cast std manifold is good but they suffer from warping too..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
    • Welcome mate. Any pics? Even with a DE I'd be well happy if I had that as a 1st car. 
×
×
  • Create New...