Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You shouldn't have to replace them until 100,000 k's. From what I've read, and personal experience, you should have platinum plugs in there so don't worry about it for another 30,000k's.

I got mine done at it's major service (100,000 k's) - did timing belt, plugs, oil, filters, etc, dyno tune & run. I went out and bought NGK Iridium's. Personally I didn't fell any noticable improvement with the Iridium's (despite all the hype on their website).

Just buy NGK Platinum's and don't waste your money on the Iridiums...

Cheers,

C.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17464-spark-plug-help/#findComment-361540
Share on other sites

what's with the remark?

If you search those threads, you will see I have extensively answered all those questions several times. It's just that after answering them so many times, you get a little tired of answering the same questions!

My point is valid, and these forums are archived for these purposes, so that people can access all sorts of information that has been discussed at an earlier stage! Dont blame me for the fact that you cant be bothered sifting through the info to find what you need.

If everyone that has answered these threads before answers here aswell, you will get another thread discussing spark plugs that is identical to the rest.....

I dont mean to offend you with my response, but if people never bothered to look up the information first, there are several topics that would have an astronomical number of identical threads. Most people get annoyed when someone has started a thread about a topic that has been covered so much, without searching and trying to formulate their own opinion first. For eample, if your question was:

I have read that plug X is good, and plug Y is also good, both for different reasons. I would like to know which is better for such and such application... Then I'm sure many people would quite happily answer (myself included)

If you want my opinion though, I recomend

NGK BCPR5E (copper plugs) for street use, gapped at 0.7 - 0.8mm

The more expensive plugs (ie: Iridiums and platinums) do not perform any better, they merely last longer which means nothing in a modified car.

I'd say change them if your believe your car is not running as well as you believe it should, or if it has developed a misfire

what does exp to put on mean? I assume you are asking if they are diffucult to change?

No, they are not difficult, but it does take time (about an hour, maybe more for first time)

If you search the forum, there is a thread someone else has written that details the procedure quite well, and lists the tools required. When you search for this one, search in ascending order as it is an older thread

also look at these threads

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=14609

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=16296

Once again, I dont want to come accross as a smart arse, but always try searching first.

Zahos

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17464-spark-plug-help/#findComment-361560
Share on other sites

You'd only go for the iridiums if you were running higher boost, say 1.2bar up. As for the platignums it has been said by quite a few people that they don't react well to octane boosters and other fuel additives. Some aftermarket ecus don't like them either.

I would use the BCPR5 for stock, go to BCPR6 or even 7 for modified depending on extent of mods and Iriway 7 for modded with higher boost if you do drags or circuit work

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17464-spark-plug-help/#findComment-362374
Share on other sites

51jay, my car is slightly modded, and I'm guestimating close to 180rwkw. The 5 heat range still works best for me, because it is my daily driver, and I hardly thrash it. I would say that it not only depends on mods, but how you drive the car. The miss at 5000 rpm is barely noticable, if at all with the 5's.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17464-spark-plug-help/#findComment-362753
Share on other sites

The problem with iridiums is they are prone to early failure despite their suggested 100k km lifetime. I've had one die on my motorcycle after only 15000km. Like, totally die, no spark at all.

I bought a replacement, and asked the shop guy if this was common with iridiums, and he said yes it happens all the time because the electrode is so small. Carbon buildup kills them. The more you get to thrash your engine the longer they will last though because carbon builds up most in stop-start traffic. He said the platinums are much more durable in this regard.

Also, I don't think you can re-gap the Iridiums. You can't lever off the central electrode anyway. You could tap down the external electrode but if you went too far it would be a bitch to pull back. I've left mine at the factory settings for both car and bike.

I am not keen to go back to copper because with the iridiums I get better economy on the bike (consistently 10-15km more per tank, which is a lot when you only do 200km on a tankful) than out of the Denso copper plugs it had from new. I can only presume the same would apply on the car, so I will go for platinums if these iridiums give me any more trouble.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17464-spark-plug-help/#findComment-362807
Share on other sites

I drew the conclusion that if there are so many contradictory answers, then there is clearly no definitive answer. It is probably a case of 'if it works, keep using it'. If it worked for one person, then it will likely work for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17464-spark-plug-help/#findComment-362929
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...