Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is it just me or does rb30 seem like a low cost low budget made block

reason i say this is because i got an rb30 block and compared it to a rb26 block, seems like evveryting from design, casting to how it was made, a rb26 seems to be far better.

the rb30 i got has really shitty casting,

rb26 has side ribs to prevent it from twisting. and rb30 don't.

seems to make sence as rb30 was never in any expensive cars to begin with....but i would never thought nissan would cheap out like that :P

just a thought.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174822-rb30-vs-rb26/
Share on other sites

is it just me or does rb30 seem like a low cost low budget made block

reason i say this is because i got an rb30 block and compared it to a rb26 block, seems like evveryting from design, casting to how it was made, a rb26 seems to be far better.

the rb30 i got has really shitty casting,

rb26 has side ribs to prevent it from twisting. and rb30 don't.

seems to make sence as rb30 was never in any expensive cars to begin with....but i would never thought nissan would cheap out like that :P

just a thought.

Yep, rb30 bloocks arent as good as the twincammers, though there are plpenty of them making 1000hp without dramas. I dont think nissan did the casting, probably done locally by holden

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174822-rb30-vs-rb26/#findComment-3206094
Share on other sites

Dont you go hating on the RB30 to Much mate ...

With aftermarket bolt ons they were in there original form good for about 500ps + before any internals needed to be changed...

I do have to agree with you that they were a budget engine though for the market and pre the Rb26 era but bang for buck still awsome!!!

they cant be to bad if people hunt them down to bolt there 26 heads on :P

Edited by ish
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174822-rb30-vs-rb26/#findComment-3206096
Share on other sites

My Rb30 block had more ribbing than the old RB20DET block. Casting quality etc looked the same; all fairly smooth, no massive dags anywhere.

The RB20DET block only had ribbing across the bottom half of the block where as my RB30 block had both ribbing across the bottom half and also up inbetween the bores.

Your comparing apples with oranges. The RB26 block is a 4wd block.

Much like comparing the regular SR20 rwd block to that of the SR20 4wd GTIR block. Considerable differences.

I've attached a couple pics of the rb20 block and rb30 block. So in many ways apples with apples. Any one care to share the same left/passenger/torque side of the rb25 block?

post-382-1183219435_thumb.jpg

post-382-1183219442_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174822-rb30-vs-rb26/#findComment-3206289
Share on other sites

they are all from the same family (RB) and all made in JAPAN

its fair to say the RB26 was cast thicker in some areas to help with the 4wd system that is used by it in particular, as mentioned above.

and just looking at them will tell you jack f**k about the metals properties used in the blocks.

rb25 block pics attached for cubes :D

post-11461-1183273761_thumb.jpg

post-11461-1183273778_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174822-rb30-vs-rb26/#findComment-3206687
Share on other sites

Thanks

Interesting.. The RB25 block looks almost identical to the rb26 block.

I wonder what the engineering theory behind ribbing vertically inbetween the bores and a ribbing horizontally through the center of the block is.

Not the best angle but u can see it looks the same. :D

post-382-1183274538_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174822-rb30-vs-rb26/#findComment-3206702
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...