Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am curious to know what the reliable and possible limits are for the components that make up our skylines. I've been through the dyno thread to see what people have done, but that and whats reliable are two diferent things.

Eg... I have an R33 GTR vspec, so based on the components of a standard car what are the limits of that parts that we all change when tuning for max power.

440cc Injectors - xxxHP

Standard GTR AFM's - xxxHP

R33 Fuel pump - xxxHP

Standard Rods - xxxHP

Standard Crank - xxxHP

Standard pistons - xxxHP

Standard block - xxxHP

Oil pump limits - xxxHP

Standard R33 Cams - xxxHP

Anyone care to jump in here...?

Cheers,

Ian

The figures will vary depending on peoples individual experiences.

ie 1 person will say their fuel pump died at 220kw where as others will say they need to replace it at 250kw.

The figures will vary depending on peoples individual experiences.

ie 1 person will say their fuel pump died at 220kw where as others will say they need to replace it at 250kw.

Yes true, but 30kw is hardly worth mentioning for somethign like a pump. Its usually the first thing changed too, then a fuel pressure regulator to crank every last bit out of your stock injectors.

Thinks like rod bolts let go at rpms as well, due to age and metal fatigue. Its hard to really see what happened when your looking at the aftermath of a rod failure too. A LOT of failures happen due to missed shifts, or are due to bad tune.

Its a lot easier to be sure of the limits of sensors to the point where the ability to tune properly is no-longer possible, vs the point at which a rod turns into a banana because you used too much boost... Can you tell i'm a high octane fan!!!?

Cheers,

Ian

Also to note, someones motor dies with say 300rwkw due to poor tuning and they dont realise.

Or they have tried to push say... the injectors too hard.

Again, the limit is also wrong then.

Roughly it goes like this from what i have seen here over the years

RB26 - 330rwkw street/300rwkw circuit

RB25 - 280wkw street/250rwkw circuit

Also things like AFM's etc, you can tune past the point they max out.

Some tuners get better results with stock cams than aftermarket ones etc. Its all dependant on car setup and the intended use and i would say its all individual based upon this.

Dynos make a difference too, one might be 30rwkw higher due to the model/type. Again thats a noticeable difference depending on the circumstance.

It is really hard to gauge something.

440cc Injectors - 440HP (or around 280rwkw)

Standard GTR AFM's - will hit the max 5.115v at around 260rwkw

R33 Fuel pump - change it when you change the injectors.

Standard Rods - xxxHP

Standard Crank - xxxHP

Standard pistons - xxxHP

Standard block - xxxHP

Oil pump limits - xxxHP

Standard R33 Cams - xxxHP

the other parts you mention don't really have a power rating. it depends on application, tuning, driver, support sytems etc as to how long they can live.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...