Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30 Tensioner Choices

Careless

By Careless,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Careless Contributor

Careless

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

i tried checking to see if this was mentioned. I'm putting the RB26 head on my RB30. What tensioners do I use when using the two lower tensioner locations instead of drill tapping a hole near the top flat portion.

I have a gates power grip GT2 150 tooth belt, and it's pretty damn sturdy, so i'll just make a thin piece of metal that separates the two teethed sides in the case of any belt flap or what have you.

so i've noticed that nismoparts.com has two different tensioners. both RB20/25, and 26. someone told me that if i use the RB26 head, i should use the 26 tensioners, but im not sure if the stud or the construction of the tensioner is the same or if the RB30 block itself is suited to RB25 tensioners rather than 26 ones.

Let me know, i want to order everything soon :-D

NA high compression RB30DE on it's way...

Thanks dudes!

Raff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175019-rb30-tensioner-choices/
Share on other sites
Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted

I thought they were all the same. I use the rb30 ones, but its a good idea to get genuine ones, as they are double row bearings instead of single row. You may want to use two tensioners instead of an idler/tensioner, as it will give you more tension adjustment(and save some $$$)]

Careless Contributor

Careless

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I thought they were all the same. I use the rb30 ones, but its a good idea to get genuine ones, as they are double row bearings instead of single row. You may want to use two tensioners instead of an idler/tensioner, as it will give you more tension adjustment(and save some $$$)]

OK, so i'll just order two RB26 ones then, or whatever's cheaper =/

thanks Ad.

Careless Contributor

Careless

Posted
  • Author
Posted
They are the same item.

Call rolling bearings with the part number (do a search on the forum for them) and use the stock NSK bearings. $120 for the pair.

I can get the Nissan OEM ones for less than that here in Canada, shipped from the US.

it will be about 100 CAD when said and done.

nismoparts.com

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

I didn't bother looking at nismoparts as the name nismo usually implies uberexpensive. They clearly don't have much of a clue if they are selling the items as suiting different applications. RB are all the same.

Plus, since you are OS it would help to put your location in the bit over on the left, so I don't waste time giving useless (to you) information.

Cheers

  • 3 weeks later...
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I replaced my set of tensioners when I recently pulled the head off.

After 60,000km's they were pretty shagged. I was running one single row bearing type and a double row nissan type. Both were just as stuffed. Crunchy and noisy when you'd spin it.

BUT saying that; I was slack; I ran with the gap inbetween the cam belt covers. I was 'gonna' fix it. Ahh well that will teach me lol.

  • 4 weeks later...
Careless Contributor

Careless

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I replaced my set of tensioners when I recently pulled the head off.

After 60,000km's they were pretty shagged. I was running one single row bearing type and a double row nissan type. Both were just as stuffed. Crunchy and noisy when you'd spin it.

BUT saying that; I was slack; I ran with the gap inbetween the cam belt covers. I was 'gonna' fix it. Ahh well that will teach me lol.

What make was the single row bearing type, and is that the difference between the RB26 and 25 versions?

which nissan part number is the double row, I can cross it in the Nissan FAST system.

Thanks cubenator!

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

I have since noticed the VL tensioner runs a wider and larger dia. bearing than the RB20 tensioner.

They were both NTK bearings; the RB20 had a smaller dia bearing compared to the VL tensioner; inside the VL bearing had 2 rows of ball bearings.

I have seen 2 types of rb20 tensioners; one isn't servicable and runs a narrower and smaller dia bearing the other is servicable and runs the same VL dia but a narrower bearing.

The Rb20 idlers run a smaller dia bearing but run 2 bearings side by side which in width is greater than that of the single vl tensioner bearing; but only just.

No idea on the part numbers nothing is stamped on them apart from the NTK bearing number. :P

I'll see if I can get some pics.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

It appears the origional tensioners on the rb30 from factory ran the good wider bearings; the ones you buy now from holden use the narrow bearing within the tensioner which is the same as what was on the rb20 I have sitting in the shed.

So at one point some one shoved a cheap holden tensioner on it.

So I'd say the tensioners to get are the genuine origional VL ones that are servicable. or just buy from Nissan for a couple hundred lol.

I think I remember the idler from nissan was up over $200!! and the tensioner slightly under. Its been some time but they were damn expensive.

I run the 2 x origional RB30 factory tensioners with the bigger bearings. The 2 I sold recently were also the bigger bearing type. :wave:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...