Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, i need some feedback.

last week i got done doin 75 in a 60 zone in murray bridge by a laser gun. later that day a bloke i work with said they can't do you for speeding if your traveling down a hill/slopped road. Is this correct?

I had only JUST come off the freeway so traveling at 120 for an hour and a bit makes 75 feel like 40.

any thoughts appreciated.

cheers Ryan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175046-speeding-fine-question/
Share on other sites

I remember reading some speedcamera usage guide or soemthing along those lines but it was a while ago so the technology may have changed.

A few things I remember that they are not supposed to do.

1. Not to be used in rain

2. not to be used in fog

3. not to be used down hill

I was pinged down a hill on my very first speeding fine so Im not sure how accurate the document i read was. Either that or the police don't follow the guidelines. :)

yea the rule is under 15 $179. over 15 $279 and if you go over 25 kiss your licence and wallet good bye.

Hill or not they will ping you! BTW if it came through as your speed was only 15 over it means you were actually detected going faster than that because they knock of a % margin to rule out any comebacks.

I think they changed the laws quite a while back. I too remember the whole "can't get you going down a hill" thing, but they also never used to be able to hide the camera either... looks like they can get you speeding any way they like these days. BTW, if it was a laser gun they have to pull you over and give you the fine on the spot don't they.

there are plenty of documents out there available for the public

google

cant set up speed detection devices on bends, on slopes, on areas with a lot of concrete, near signs, across lanes of traffic, cant hide the cameras either - they need to be clearly visable, etc etc etc, cops still do all the above tho. It is written into their regulations and guidlines on how to operate these units.

good luck fighting it tho.

use your right, take it to court.

doesn't matter if your going down hill, your still speeding, don't bother trying to contest it

fixed speed cameras will get you if you're doing 10% greater than the speed limit

both these facts verified with a cop

it certainly does matter if your going down hill and NOT[/] speeding

early last year i got pulled over and alleged i was doing 147 in a 100 zone this was round a bend near nice shinny high street lights @ gawler ive fought it all the way and got on them to say i was doing 90 in a 80 zone no dangerous driving no conviction no LOSS of license to which is a huge inconvenience for me

BTW i wasnt doing much over 110 in the 100 zone

the laser guns are a crock they a so inaccurate its not funny and then there is the procedure of calibration which they would like you to think happens every week every time the gun is knocked say in the officers saddle bags its putting the lazer out of wack

Them radars and laser guns are very inconsistant. by changing lanes (ie: moving sideways or even going around a curve) it severely changes the output from the units.

hence they cannot be set up on bends. however i watched a program debating the use of these by the police and defence in court etc etc.

End of the day, chin up and pay the fine otherwise you'll end up paying more out in court anyway. unless it would result in loss of licence.

Im a radar technician (no joke its part of my job at work with electronics), and yeh these radar guns they use are crap, basically its hard to get an accurate reading due to the factors that reflect the radar waves. they have even got readings of 20km/hr on a rock wall, its all to do with the doppler effect and the reflection of the radar waves that are transmitted. Basically but its much easier to pay the fine than take it to court to fight for your $100.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess when I say it's a POS I mean.. the solution and the stuff has the capacity for maybe... 1 spot. You know, as a spot cleaner. What I really *want* is the ability to do an entire car, all upholstery, all carpet, mats, all seats, door card inserts, A pillars, roof liners, etc. In one go. I get lured by all the jank that comes out and think "I'd like to be able to clean to that degree"
    • I've got one (not the car one, the domestic spot cleaner one, which is basically the same jobbie) and have driven it hard for hours and hours at a time. Grimy sofas, 6' floor rugs, etc. I'd blame your specific example rather than the whole category. I haven't used mine in the car, because.... you know, it's my car. So there is no-one else's ball sweat in the driver's seat, there's no kid food/drink spills or hand prints inside because they've never had an opportunity to put them there. You know, basic, standard Skyline rules.
    • I normally run with I think a 10mm, and definitely use the second handle you can add to a drill. They hurt when they bins up!   For the crush tube, once all subframe is clear, I'd try some stilsons and see if I can get it to start to twist.
    • Probably because they couldn't, because the use of the variable resistor to create a "signal" in the ECU is managed by the ECU's circuitry. The only way that VDO could do it would be if they made a "smart" sensor that directly created the 0-5V signal itself. And that takes us back to the beginning. Well, in that case, you could do the crude digital (ie, binary, on or off) input that I mentioned before, to at least put a marker on the trace. If you pressed the button only at a series of known integer temperatures, say every 2°C from the start of your range of interest up to whatever you can manage, and you know what temperature the first press was at, then you'd have the voltage marked for all of those temperatures. And you can have more than one shot at it too. You can set the car up to get the oil hot (bypass oil coolers, mask off the air flow to oil coolers, and/or the radiator, to get the whole engine a bit hotter, then give it a bit of curry to get some measurements up near the top of the range.   On the subject of the formula for the data you provided, I did something different to Matt's approach, and got a slightly different linear formula, being Temp = -22.45*V + 118.32. Just a curve fit from Excel using all the points, instead of just throwing it through 2 points. A little more accurate, but not drastically different. Rsquared is only 0.9955 though, which is good but not great. If you could use higher order polynomials in the thingo, then a quadratic fit gives an excellent Rsquared of 0.9994. Temp = 2.1059*V^2 - 34.13*V + 133.27. The funny thing is, though, that I'd probably trust the linear fit more for extrapolation beyond the provided data. The quadratic might get a bit squirrely. Hang on, I'll use the formulae to extend the plots.... It's really big so you can see all the lines. I might have to say that I think I really still prefer the quadratic fit. It looks like the linear fit overstates the temperature in the middle of the input range, and would pretty solidly understate what the likely shape of the real curve would say at both ends.
    • I got a hand held bisssel one and it's a piece of shit. Doesn't work for more than about 5 seconds. So much so that I nearly refuse to believe any wet dry vac actually works or has enough suction to clean the carpet of a car. I'm discouraged as all the good ones are $300+ for an unknown result. I saw MCM did a Ryobi video where they use this thing: https://www.ryobi.com.au/products/stick-vacuum-cleaners/18v-one-hptm-brushless-spot-cleaner-tool-only Anyone have any experience actually using a tool like this when not paid to showcase it?
×
×
  • Create New...