Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I personally do not like them as I think the stock lights look nice as they are - moreover, if you just rely on the double-sided tape to stick these eye lids on, they will not stick for long and part of them will become undone - some people super-glue them on which is not recommended as if you want them off they will leave permanent scaring etc.

The above are just my ideas.

Regards,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175314-eye-lids/#findComment-3216027
Share on other sites

I personally do not like them as I think the stock lights look nice as they are - moreover, if you just rely on the double-sided tape to stick these eye lids on, they will not stick for long and part of them will become undone - some people super-glue them on which is not recommended as if you want them off they will leave permanent scaring etc.

The above are just my ideas.

Regards,

the ones i bought have double sided tape, nowing now i most likley wont use them... unless there is a better more permanent way... not glue though

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175314-eye-lids/#findComment-3217295
Share on other sites

Look fellas, with Eyelids, you gotta be really careful as sometimes it can make the car look worser not better... it's personal preference so you gotta modify, add cosmetics to your ride the way you want it to be and the way you want it to represent you on the road - stuff what others think.,.. it's your ride, your the owner of it, do it to your heart's content.

There's a new trend out nowadays... eyelids that are pad of a kit or bonnet so it looks stock and it actually just covers on from the bonnet and is not separate, this makes it look tough...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175314-eye-lids/#findComment-3217608
Share on other sites

I like the eyelids, it sets them apart from the stock looking front ends. All up painted they cost me about $60, I had them on my car for about 4 months until it went to Willowbank and they both flew off at 3/4 track. I was pissed off at the time, but i spose its pretty funny now. At 120mph the double sided tape is shit. Like it was mentioned above use sycaflex or silicone.

This a pic of my car with the eyelids, my opinion is it definately looks better.

post-30261-1183798420_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175314-eye-lids/#findComment-3218356
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...