Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

This is wrong, this is very wrong.

A week ago driving my R33 for the last day before the new penalties were in force I took my car out for a bit of a

session.. First corner I entered, midway crossed up the car stalled & wouldnt start again...

Got the car towed to my tuner at CREATD motorsport which was just around the corner.. and he just called

me 10 minutes ago to tell me one of the pistons isnt working.. either a broken rod, rod bolt etc, god knows wont know for

sure till he opens the motor..

I am extremely, extremely angry. This engine was rebuilt about 30,000kms ago by

the old owner who supposedly spend 9gz there on the rebuild.. I trusted the rebuild.

Engine is ment to have:

Arias Forgies

O Ringed & fully balanced bottom end bored 20thou with ACL Race Bearings

New Linished Crank

Standard rods & full standard reco head.

Thats all i can remember from the top of my head....

The car is running a Microtech Plug in, with a 3inch tbo back, garret front mount & GT 28 76R turbo

and a Bee R rev limiter.

Car was beautifully tuned on a mild 14psi making 217 at the wheels..

I thought a setup like this should last yeeeeeeeaaaaarssss, since there are so many dudes pumping 300+ out

of there standard bottom ends for so long!!

At the moment im not 100% sure on what to blame, the quality of the engine build or the Bee R limiter.

However, seriously i cant see it being the Bee R since it was only installed on the last tune 2 months ago and i drove the

car twice a week maxxxxx, and i didnt exactly sit on limiters for a laugh when i drove the car & it was also set

at a very low 6500RPM!!

This car was never thrashed for a long time at once, never passed the half way line on temp, and id cruise the car

for 5-10 minutes with the bonnet unhooked after every time i gave it some stick. I treat the thing like a baby.

Thats why i am so angry!

Edited by R31Nismoid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175396-blew-my-motor/
Share on other sites

mate join the club... I had about 25,000km on my forged motor (exactly same specs as yours), now its sitting in the garage with a spun bearing...

I did the same as you, assumed I could lean on it all I wanted because I had only 200rwkw... I just didn't look after it properly and was tracking it fairly frequently and it eventually cracked the sh!ts... however I will be extra upset if there is any piston damage like yours

ps. I hope he didn't spend 9grand on that build... mine cost half that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175396-blew-my-motor/#findComment-3214325
Share on other sites

my bee r rev limiter was set at nothing higher than 6000 - 6500rpm was verryyy rarely set on 7000rpm which should still be nothing for a forged motor!!

What annoys me is i called the builder of this engine a week ago and asked him if he could re write a receipt for all the work done to the motor since the guy i bought it off never found them.... I wanted these receipts simply for the peace of mind and the fact that i wasnt sure wether id keep this car or not with the new laws....

The builder refused to write me a receipt, all i wanted was details of what was done & how much was paid thats it! no warranty no nothing.

All he agreed to was a phone number that the buyer of this car could call to ask what has been done. That doesnt satisfy me, i wanted it in writing.

Is there any reason why the builder wouldnt re-write a receipt????

Edited by Dean_HR31
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175396-blew-my-motor/#findComment-3214482
Share on other sites

I reckon you are mostly to blame though.

How can you beleive someone when they say they have a "BUILT" motor in it, without seeing actual reciepts.

Even Still I wouldnt beleive it. I would have tested the engine as you normally do (compression, Diagnostics etc) but thats about it.

So many many people Ive known over the years buy a car where the previous owner has said "its been rebuilt with forgies" only to have it blow up shortly after and when pulled down finding that its actually and old high kilometer motor.

The biggest cause of this is that people think well its got a built forged motor there fore even if its running small power I can cain the living shit outta it and itll last forever.

I would never buy a car based on that and actually think its bullet proof. As for the BEE R limiter - do you think the "built" motor is indestructible when youve got it belting on a set limit?

Edited by R31Nismoid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175396-blew-my-motor/#findComment-3215169
Share on other sites

Where did this occur, on a public road?
why does that matter..? not being mean, just curious.
First corner I entered, midway crossed up the car stalled & wouldnt start again...

Thread closed. No time for heros, idiots or otherwise here.

NOTE: Workshop names edited. Implications are not good or nice things when you have absolutely no proof.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175396-blew-my-motor/#findComment-3215200
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading through the engine service manual their advice is do a cylinder balance test. Unplug one injector at a time and see if the idle drops a consistent RPM. You can also do this using a Consult cable which is easier. They also call for unplugging the power transistor, then with the engine off and the fuel rail unhooked from the manifold verifying that you have good fuel flow (even injection, no dripping/leaks, etc) when you twist the CAS by hand. Also verify the spark by pulling the spark plugs and allowing the plugs to ground and turning the CAS by hand. I would also start doing the sensor checks and idle valve checks in service manual. Make sure the MAF tests reasonably, the intake air regulator is sane, etc. You may have to get new spark plugs.
    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
×
×
  • Create New...