Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

alright, i realized twin turbo setup is not for me or my apllication, im gonna go with a nice size single turbo setup. now im not looking to make more than 450hp to the wheels but i need amazing response like boost at 2800rpm and up making a very nice smooth boost curve. Im going to run a twin scroll manifold with a full T4 60-1 turbo now would this allow me to run a very nice spool and great response?

also what do i do with all the factory coolant/oil lines to the stock turbo? my new setup only requires one oil feed and one oil return.

what is the fitting that i would need to go from the block to an -4an fitting to supply oil to my turbo

what oil return do i use? can i use either the stock front/rear turbo return spots?

where can i get the intake turbo pipe that splits to a "Y" shap to run twin mafs? or is this a custom peice?

oh and the only mods im gonna do is cometic metal headgasket,adj. camsprockets and front mount intercooler

thanks all in advance,

paul F.

Edited by paul f
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175647-single-turbo-setup-questions/
Share on other sites

You can get a T04/60-1 Garrett ball bearing turbo - I think they call them T4R . They are almost identical to A T04Z except they use a T04S 60-1 compressor pn 409535-1 . Can use all the same turbine housings and comes with the same T04S 0.70 A/R compressor housing .

Personally I think for the power this turbo is overkill , the real Garrett GT3071R in twin scroll form can do 440 and if in the US talk to FullRace Motorsport . You may want to look into head work and cams for an SR20/KA24 because the turbo may not do so well on a mechanically std engine .

BTW both the T04S 60-1 compressor and P trim turbine are hardly modern technology and you can do better .

Cheers a .

ok specs ar 4inch inlet 2.5 outlet .60ar cold side, and .80 hot side 3inch outlet and its a wet float bearing im looking for around 450hp but i would like boost to come in as fast as possiable i have a wideband and am going to tune with an safc neo to help the fuel curve a little too! im not looking for something amazing but with decent power but amazing responsise! what ya think?

Mate its going to take far more than a SAFC to make the results youre after

Agreed.

450rwhp/330rwkw

Response around 2800rpm

Only S-AFC to tune

Its all things that just are not fitting together and simply put, will not give you what you want.

If you was blistering response. You'd need a GT30, and that will limit the power to around 300rwkw at best.

You really need a PowerFC, or some kind of decent management.

Also a forged bottom end. You want to drift it and give it a flogging, no stock RB26 will take that with 300rwkw. It will for a while, but it will die.

I dont even reckon a GT30 would come on that low.

Standard RB26s dont come on hard till 3500rpm.

I also agree with Nismoid. 300rwkw, constant 8000rpm and standard bottom end will go bang no matter what motor it is

espessially if you try and tune it with a S-AFC

Its not school holidays in the US is it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...