Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as most of u know i am trying to sell my car...... the car as it stands is uninsured .... i dont want anyone to drive the car with me in it/out of it cause of this fact...... is it wrong to tell people that they can only be passenger in the car till i get a sizeable non refundable deposit or the full purchase amount???? cause if they smash it i am stuck with a smashed 32 no cash and not been able to buy a gtr cause ill have to fix mine.... what do u guys think? am i been unreasnable...its very hard as there are so many time wasters out there who just wanna drive a skyline like a fool...... :) :) :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17570-test-driving-opinions-please/
Share on other sites

NissTrust

thats a good idea but i work for an insurance co. and that wouldnt work as the driver at the time will say that he has no money that all recovery for cost will lie on the owner of the vehicle. I think when selling your car you should be able to judge someones character and maturity level the best thing to do would be they watch and you drive and if there genuine then take them to a industral area. I suppose thats the risk of trying to sell ya car privately

hope it helps dude.

When I purchased mine I wasn't able to drive the car due to it not being insured for any one else but the driver.

Thats the way it goes.. I got the bloke to take mine for a test drive for around 1 hr. From mid town in to the country up a huge hill that goes for around 5 kays. Shows up any overheating etc problems.

I sold my old VS V8 Manual and let people test drive it however that was a different policy. other drivers were covered.

My policy now states no one over a rating 3 can drive the car. AND the driver also has to be a nominated driver other wise even if they have a rating one no cover. Hence this also applies with workshops.. If they test drive the car and prang it.. No cover unless they have cover.

The guy i bought my skyline wouldn't let me test drive it until i had paid for it, but that was cool, he drove me around noth sydney etc...

as a passanger it is easier to listen to squeaks etc... u get a good feel of the car and u can tell how the previous owner dove the car.

also someone who is interested in buying your car wont mind if u dont let them drive... if they do then i doubt they are really interested

Thats it.. They won't 'not' buy a car if they are keen and like it due to a test drive, just make sure you take them for a decent drive if they really are keen..

Unless they drive a v8 and want to test drive a skyline because they got their arse kicked by one.. :P

I seem to be in a minority.

when i was buying my 32 one guy took me for a test drive and didn't let me drive. needless to say i didn't end up buying from him.

Its better to drive the car yourself if your looking to buy any car, cos then you can see if the car drives straight and brakes in a straight line and whether the steering wheel vibrates/shakes at a cetain speed. and of course to see if the engine is responisive and whether the clutch the car has in it isn't rooted or really heavy. (can be a surprise to first timers!)

just a few minor things..............

Can you afford to lose the car if someone prangs it?

If they really must drive it then take a sizeable deposit, like $3-4k. If they are serious they'll be up for it. Get them to sign an acknowledgement of liability as well.

Personal cheques mean NOTHING, bank cheques aren't much better.

RED900SS thats exactly my thoughts dude....... if they seriously want the car and want to drive it to make a final decision then they will be willing to not flog it and hand over a few k for the sake of my feeling better and so i know they are serious......thanks for the opinions guys keep em comming.....

I wouldn't really consider buying the car unitl I had driven it - and I wouldn't want to have to put down a sizeble deposit just to test drive it.

Up to you mate, both arguments have their merits.

But, an example for ya, a yard here had a '90 MX5. Obviously freshly shipped to tassie from the melb austions......Anyway, wanted a test drive-"nah mate, no insurance-and we have had heaps of enquiries anyway " anyway, this was in september last year- It went to another yard, but I spoke to someone who tried to test drive it in april-same story, though this is an older bloke....

Do you want to be stuck with it that long?

I'd say let 'em test drive it, but play it by ear, use some judgement in who you let drive.

cheers,

floody

ive been handed keys to test drive cheap crappy cars, but any fast car ive bought, its only when i decide i want it, that the owner let me drive, on all occasions no insurance or deposit. As mentioned, its a good point, that you can usually tell if someone is genuine or just out for a hoon. Like if the first thing they do when they first see the car is give a quick once over then ask for the keys, id definitly say no! In my case i usually have seen the car a couple of times, been for a ride, then decide to buy, and the owners had no probs in letting me drive before i payed.

i wouldn't buy it if i wasnt able to drive it, also i wouldnt fork over $$$ just to test drive it....

use your discretion about whether they are really interested in buying it, when a buyer is really interested in a particular car they

check everything thoroughly not just kick the tyres and ask for the keys

i would take them for a long drive first, let them think about it

if they come back then i would let them have a short drive

also ask them if they have checked out other r32's...if they havent

then they likely wont buy yours...people dont usually buy the

first example they see.......(unless they come back ;p)

I think ull find that most insurance policies have a clause that says that u r covered if someone else is driving if its a test drive, as long as ur in the vehicle with them. Eg famous have this, im pretty sure, even though its a ''named driver'' policy.

I would never buy a car with out having driven it. Unless i bought it in japan...

And i certainly wouldnt give someone a deposit before ive driven a car, especially not cash. Say if they do have an accident driving ur car, what u going to do, steal there money? Hold them 4 ransom?

If any car dealer doesnt let u drive a car coz his "'insurance doesnt cover you"", tell him to f$@k off.. what a load of crap. Of course there insurance would cover all test drives.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...