Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I added to my previous post with some figures. :thumbsup:

The S13 diff isn't a drop in due to its different housing. So again you will be forced to swap the ratio from that diff in to your housing. Of which will blow out ot $600 odd by the time you buy the diff and have it fitted.

thats all i want. drop in the centre ratio into my housing :thumbsup:

Edited by R33GOD

Darren,

Another Darren with his R31 470rwkw here in Adelaide has played with a few different diff ratio's. With the auto. He settled on the VLT's 3.45:1. He said it heaps a shit loads with wheelspin. 165km/h at the top end of third is not that crash hot.

Also.. Gave you a wave in a red vn Dungadoor last Sat I think it was; south end of diag road.

Darren,

Another Darren with his R31 470rwkw here in Adelaide has played with a few different diff ratio's. With the auto. He settled on the VLT's 3.45:1. He said it heaps a shit loads with wheelspin. 165km/h at the top end of third is not that crash hot.

Also.. Gave you a wave in a red vn Dungadoor last Sat I think it was; south end of diag road.

yea i thought it was you.

The other darren has a rigid rear end so that doesnt help me much.

  • 3 weeks later...

When I originally purchased my car it dyno'd at 189rwkw and would light up the tyres a little too easily. This was great fun for the first couple of weeks but it was getting ridiculous after that. At the same time I was also suspect of the wheel alignment as there was slight evidence of uneven tyre wear.

Decided to get a full 4 wheel alignment done and it transformed the rear end completely. Now you need to make a much bigger effort to break loose the rear tyres on take off.

The diff cradle bushes can have a huge effect on this also, can't they? Have you checked to see whether yours are worn or could they have been replaced with aftermarket bushes at some stage which may offer less compliance and a greater tendency to break traction (hence the reason that drifters use them)?

These are a couple of cheap things to check and/or change if neccesary which both can have a dramatic effect on your rear end grip.

Cheers, Mike

i run brand new 265/35/18 inch hankooks mate :huh:

moreso for reducing revs at 100kph on the freeway

some better tyres, a decent alignment and maybe some pineapples to adjust drive angle you will be sweet. Cats drift car with 280rwkw (old SR20) with decent 235's would pull throught the gears with minimal wheelspin.... its all in the contact pactch and the quality of tyre providing that contact patch... forget diff ratio's... even with 4.37 we had awesome grip... so with only 209rwkw and 4.1's you should be laughing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
    • They have said food will be limited. Mainly meat pies and sausage rolls from memory. But they have a coffee van!
×
×
  • Create New...