Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently been looking at upgrading my brakes to something that will cope on track days and have come across what will be a good deal if we can get a few people on board...

What it is - A front brake upgrade kit that allows to convert your R32/33 Gts-t/Z32 300ZX/S14 5-stud/S15 front rotors from the standard sized rotors to the GTR spec 325mm rotors.

What's included - A pair of slotted DBA4000 rotors (325mm), a caliper mounting bracket which allows the brake caliper to be moved to fit the new rotor size, and a set of (front) pads (either Ferodo Formulas (2000s), or 2500's - your choice).

Who from/How much - I have organised this through Brake Lining and Parts at Condell Park, Sydney. Over the counter price is $990 for the kit with the ferodo 2500 pads or $770 with the ferodo ultimate pads. If I can get 10 people (including myself) interested we can have this price reduced by at least 10% (exact price to be confirmed when I see how much interest there is).

Other Details - This kit will fit S14 (5 stud) and S15 silvias/200sx as well as Z32 300zx's. I have been told the kit can also be fitted to 33's but I believe the standard rotor size is 300mm and therefore the increase is only fairly small. It may also fit any other models which use the same specification original rotors/pads as those listed.

Pics -

Original (280mm) rotor on top of upgraded (325mm) rotor

Picture56.jpg

Caliper mounting bracket

Picture54.jpg

New Pad size Vs Old pad size

Picture53.jpg

If you are interested Please leave a message in this thread so that we can decide whether this group buy will be worthwhile. I will endeavour to finalise exact pricing over the next few days.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Edited by Chris-06R
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175711-brake-upgrade-kit-rotors-and-pads/
Share on other sites

Hmm, not 100% sure if the mounting bracket will suit moving from the 296mm size to the 325mm size but I will find out- I would say it would be ok as its only 16mm different to the 280mm rotors its made for and I believe the mounting points are slightly different.

If I could organise a group buy on these would there be anyone else interested?

Edited by Chris-06R

have you got any idea on price?

I'm very interested if its cheap as this is all i would need to get my new engine in my car and registered legaly

PM me please

I'd be interested in the mounting brackets, seeing as I can get DBA rotors fairly cheap through my business anyway. Likewise, I don't need the pads. Can you let us know if we can just get the bracket?

Hey guys, I'll be away for this week so I won't be able to take this any further in that time...

But when I get back I will find out if we can get the brackets seperately :P

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

There wasn't enough interest to warrant a group buy however I bought a kit for myself anyway - a solid track day at wakefield and the brakes performed perfectly all day, and have on the road since.

If you're interested contact Darren or Bruce at Brake Lining and parts on (02) 9790 2003 (website is http://www.performanceroadandraceparts.com.au/)

  • 1 month later...

I'd be keen but I'd rather not have to pay for pads cos I've got some fresh ones - I just want the rotor and bracket. Btw what sized/model # pad are you using to get the extra length?

Edited by Busky2k

Can they do this for a GTT R34? They have 310mm front rotors so again it wouldnt be too much bigger, but the rotors are hard to come by for a decent price anyway for these cars.

PM me if they can do it!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
×
×
  • Create New...