Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently been looking at upgrading my brakes to something that will cope on track days and have come across what will be a good deal if we can get a few people on board...

What it is - A front brake upgrade kit that allows to convert your R32/33 Gts-t/Z32 300ZX/S14 5-stud/S15 front rotors from the standard sized rotors to the GTR spec 325mm rotors.

What's included - A pair of slotted DBA4000 rotors (325mm), a caliper mounting bracket which allows the brake caliper to be moved to fit the new rotor size, and a set of (front) pads (either Ferodo Formulas (2000s), or 2500's - your choice).

Who from/How much - I have organised this through Brake Lining and Parts at Condell Park, Sydney. Over the counter price is $990 for the kit with the ferodo 2500 pads or $770 with the ferodo ultimate pads. If I can get 10 people (including myself) interested we can have this price reduced by at least 10% (exact price to be confirmed when I see how much interest there is).

Other Details - This kit will fit S14 (5 stud) and S15 silvias/200sx as well as Z32 300zx's. I have been told the kit can also be fitted to 33's but I believe the standard rotor size is 300mm and therefore the increase is only fairly small. It may also fit any other models which use the same specification original rotors/pads as those listed.

Pics -

Original (280mm) rotor on top of upgraded (325mm) rotor

Picture56.jpg

Caliper mounting bracket

Picture54.jpg

New Pad size Vs Old pad size

Picture53.jpg

If you are interested Please leave a message in this thread so that we can decide whether this group buy will be worthwhile. I will endeavour to finalise exact pricing over the next few days.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Edited by Chris-06R
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175711-brake-upgrade-kit-rotors-and-pads/
Share on other sites

Hmm, not 100% sure if the mounting bracket will suit moving from the 296mm size to the 325mm size but I will find out- I would say it would be ok as its only 16mm different to the 280mm rotors its made for and I believe the mounting points are slightly different.

If I could organise a group buy on these would there be anyone else interested?

Edited by Chris-06R

have you got any idea on price?

I'm very interested if its cheap as this is all i would need to get my new engine in my car and registered legaly

PM me please

I'd be interested in the mounting brackets, seeing as I can get DBA rotors fairly cheap through my business anyway. Likewise, I don't need the pads. Can you let us know if we can just get the bracket?

Hey guys, I'll be away for this week so I won't be able to take this any further in that time...

But when I get back I will find out if we can get the brackets seperately :P

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

There wasn't enough interest to warrant a group buy however I bought a kit for myself anyway - a solid track day at wakefield and the brakes performed perfectly all day, and have on the road since.

If you're interested contact Darren or Bruce at Brake Lining and parts on (02) 9790 2003 (website is http://www.performanceroadandraceparts.com.au/)

  • 1 month later...

I'd be keen but I'd rather not have to pay for pads cos I've got some fresh ones - I just want the rotor and bracket. Btw what sized/model # pad are you using to get the extra length?

Edited by Busky2k

Can they do this for a GTT R34? They have 310mm front rotors so again it wouldnt be too much bigger, but the rotors are hard to come by for a decent price anyway for these cars.

PM me if they can do it!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...