Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've recently been looking at upgrading my brakes to something that will cope on track days and have come across what will be a good deal if we can get a few people on board...

What it is - A front brake upgrade kit that allows to convert your R32/33 Gts-t/Z32 300ZX/S14 5-stud/S15 front rotors from the standard sized rotors to the GTR spec 325mm rotors.

What's included - A pair of slotted DBA4000 rotors (325mm), a caliper mounting bracket which allows the brake caliper to be moved to fit the new rotor size, and a set of (front) pads (either Ferodo Formulas (2000s), or 2500's - your choice).

Who from/How much - I have organised this through Brake Lining and Parts at Condell Park, Sydney. Over the counter price is $990 for the kit with the ferodo 2500 pads or $770 with the ferodo ultimate pads. If I can get 10 people (including myself) interested we can have this price reduced by at least 10% (exact price to be confirmed when I see how much interest there is).

Other Details - This kit will fit S14 (5 stud) and S15 silvias/200sx as well as Z32 300zx's. I have been told the kit can also be fitted to 33's but I believe the standard rotor size is 300mm and therefore the increase is only fairly small. It may also fit any other models which use the same specification original rotors/pads as those listed.

Pics -

Original (280mm) rotor on top of upgraded (325mm) rotor

Picture56.jpg

Caliper mounting bracket

Picture54.jpg

New Pad size Vs Old pad size

Picture53.jpg

If you are interested Please leave a message in this thread so that we can decide whether this group buy will be worthwhile. I will endeavour to finalise exact pricing over the next few days.

Thanks :thumbsup:

Edited by Chris-06R
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175711-brake-upgrade-kit-rotors-and-pads/
Share on other sites

Hmm, not 100% sure if the mounting bracket will suit moving from the 296mm size to the 325mm size but I will find out- I would say it would be ok as its only 16mm different to the 280mm rotors its made for and I believe the mounting points are slightly different.

If I could organise a group buy on these would there be anyone else interested?

Edited by Chris-06R

have you got any idea on price?

I'm very interested if its cheap as this is all i would need to get my new engine in my car and registered legaly

PM me please

I'd be interested in the mounting brackets, seeing as I can get DBA rotors fairly cheap through my business anyway. Likewise, I don't need the pads. Can you let us know if we can just get the bracket?

Hey guys, I'll be away for this week so I won't be able to take this any further in that time...

But when I get back I will find out if we can get the brackets seperately :P

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

There wasn't enough interest to warrant a group buy however I bought a kit for myself anyway - a solid track day at wakefield and the brakes performed perfectly all day, and have on the road since.

If you're interested contact Darren or Bruce at Brake Lining and parts on (02) 9790 2003 (website is http://www.performanceroadandraceparts.com.au/)

  • 1 month later...

I'd be keen but I'd rather not have to pay for pads cos I've got some fresh ones - I just want the rotor and bracket. Btw what sized/model # pad are you using to get the extra length?

Edited by Busky2k

Can they do this for a GTT R34? They have 310mm front rotors so again it wouldnt be too much bigger, but the rotors are hard to come by for a decent price anyway for these cars.

PM me if they can do it!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...