Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have read thru all the posts regarding the cleaning of headlights and related stuff..

As you must have guesssed it by now that i gota get my headlights cleaned out and i believe it only needs to be cleaned from the outside.. The plastic cover i mean..

I have dis guy at plastic fusion who is going to sand it, polish it.. all that stuff .... for $100/ set. However i need help in pulling the headlights out from the car. I have asked 1 mechanic and a panel beater.. dey said dey need to remove the front bumper before pulling the headlights out .. its r33 s2, 1998 model.

I think dey are just trying to rig money from me as i have no clue about dis sort of stuff.. and dey have quoted it around 150 - 200 bucks to take the headlights out and put dem back in....

Can anyone please let me konw if all that pulling of bumpers and stuff is required to take the headlights out or i can just unscrew some nuts/bolts and do it meself and hopefully save sum money.. hehe..

please give me sum sort of a guideline on how to actually pull the headlights out... and for r33 , S2 it has not been covered in any of the discussion boards....

Any help will be appreciated....

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176044-r33-s2-removing-headlights-urgent/
Share on other sites

You don't need to remove the front bar. I've done it myself before without removing it. It is however, a pain in the ass; atleast for me it was. Just remove the bolts and have a play around trying to get it out...

Good luck! :D

thanks alot for dat .. i will give it a go and see wat i can come up with...

just wondering, any nuts/bolts in hidden places that i mite not be able to see directly ???

And i will really appreciate if nyone has access to a tutorial for pulling the headlights from the car...so that i can follow it properly and dont stuff nything up.. i have read a few guidelines but none are for R33 S2..

Thanks in Advance,

cheers

if you ahve a look, it is very straight forward where the bolts are .. as you can see the mounting points when you open the bonnet, just go down directly from the top ones to find the bottom ones.

I took my headlights off a month ago, took off the front bar which was a breeze since I just installed a FMIC not long ago.

Then the 4 bolts and I think there are also 2 screws for each side under the front bar near the intrusion bar that needs to be unscrewed.

I must admit that the passenger side was a bit of a pain since you need to take out the air filter, the bolts are really hard to reach.

^^ Correct..

There is 2 nuts on the inside of the engine bay that come out the back of the lights.. 1 bracket on the top.. than the ones that catch you out, are the 2 x screws that go into the brackets through the bottom of the front bar..

Get under neath the car, take a look up under the front bar, they're round the side/back of the lights and there is a metal bracket that holds it down..

Once you've got them out, be careful removing them.. should be easy enough though..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...