Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I don't know my R34's that well. What year did the R34 change over from series 1 to series 2? A series 1 vs. 2 R33 (the whole car - not the turbo) are easy to distinguisg from one another becaise of the face lift - is it the same with R34's?

Alternatively, how do I tell the difference between an S1 and S2 R34 turbo?

Thanks!

They can all hold about the same boost.

Maybe the R34 series 2 has the Op6 exhaust housing (larger) so will make about 10kw more as stated.

They all spool quick. R33 one with the plastic compressor wheel will be the earliest spooler but all these stock ones are very reponsive. The larger exhaust housing will delay you hitting full boost by about 300rpm.

Just on topic..

R33 turbo is laggier and will have less responce than a R34 series one turbo .. R34 series 1 turbo spools much quicker and with the right mods can be full boost a 3g and less.

R34 turbo series 2, is bigger and can run a higher boost level, still spoools quick but not as fast as a series1 .. Ideal for a high flow.

I only know this because ill be doing exactly that for my 34

How is it that the R34 S1 Turbo can spool quicker than a R33 S2 turbo? Maybe on their respective engines.

Is it only the R34 S2 that has the VG30 exhaust housing and the R34 S1 has the same turbo as the R33 S2?

I don't think birth has mentioned it, but he's got an RB20 with a VG30 turbo and is looking for a more responsive turbo than what he's got.

In short I'd say R33 S2 turbo. If the R34 S1 turbo is exactly the same size (exhaust housing) then get that....only because its younger though.

Thanks KeyMaker. Have you seen anything on teh forums about how to tell the difference between the R34 S1 and S2 turbos?

No, I wasn't even aware there was a difference. My understanding was that all the R34GTT Turbos had the VG30 exhaust housing.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t1...r34+turbo+S1+S2

Might be an interesting read for ya.

Main Differences:

R33 Series 1 Turbo: The Baseline (Metal comp wheel)

R33 Series 2 Turbo: Plastic compressor wheel - quicker spool slightly

R34 Turbo: Most have the bigger exhaust housing so will be a little laggier. Rumours that some have the smaller housing. Not sure on comp wheel. 10kw more than R33 turbos if you get the "OP6" housing.

VG30 turbo: Same exhaust housing as R34 (If you get the "OP6"). Compressor wheel is smaller. Exhaust wheel possibly the same as R33/R34. Apparently not as good as an R33 turbo because they are laggy (due to the R34/VG30 housing) and don't make that much power (due to the small comp wheel size - more like R32 turbo size).

Edited by benl1981

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sorry had a bit of a week and haven't had heaps of time to follow this, so apologies if I've missed something - any chance of showing a log with the rpm, turbo speed, MAP, and wgdc all in one view? Definitely an "interesting" problem, and while it's definitely worth noting that there was a similar issue with the twins I'd not completely put all bets on the root cause being the same thing.  Keep an open mind, follow the data.
    • I built this engine approximately 12 years ago so my own head (brain) is a little grey on the exact hardware in the RB head, however what I recall is. Stock RB25 NEO TURBO Intake Camshaft HKS 260 degree Exhaust Camshaft (R34 GTR) RB25 NEO Turbo Springs  I ported/removed the exhaust stud humps found in the RB25 head so theres less turbulence but it wasn't ported/polished properly, just a hump removal. I've attached two pictures of the before and after to illustrate.     The ECU gets its boost reference from the nipple on the rear of the head on the intake side, behind the fuel rail. The wastegate gets its boost reference from a nipple on the cooler pipe immediately after the comp cover.  Could a decent pressure drop across the intercooler cause the wastegate to be seeing a higher PSI than what the ECU is seeing, and thus it can't control it accurately and quick enough?   We ran a line to the actuator and watched it open and close using an air compressor, while we didn't have a gauge on the line to see when it was cracking open, it was opening smoothly.  I just removed the gate now and even though the documentation says you need to open it in a vice due to preload (which I did), there wasn't any preload on the cap, which is something we noticed straight out of the box as well when new. This silver cap internally is threaded to the actuator rod that runs out the bottom of the straightgate. Not sure how I'm supposed to get this spring out to be frank.. Potentially but everyone else doesn't appear to have to stop at 500kw because of 6boosts design.  I would, but I think I'm getting to that point where if I'm going to do the head and make another 100kw, then I'm going to need a fancy gearbox and quite a few other things and 10k becomes 20k becomes 30k within a few months. I'm not necessarily sold on the idea just yet that the head is restrictive at 4000rpm (and what.. 300kw?) and yet doesn't seem to be restrictive at 7000rpm when it's making 500kw, however I'm obviously not closing the door on that theory.
    • Yeah - Half the problem is I know this sensor actually goes to 150C.. I'm pretty certain it is min of 11C. So still more data required I suppose. It's really quite hard to get the oil temp to 100+ then immediately pull over and take a reading before the temp drops. Annoyingly I suppose the range I really 'want' is likely 80 -> 120C. TBH the ecu can't really *do* anything with it, and the gauge itself is very visible... ...but you know how it is.
    • My EFR 8474 Black, made 800awhp on a roller dyno. at 25-26psi. E85. Shaft speed was around 106,000rpm 1.01 rear. The rear is maxed.  6 boost Turbosmart 60mm gate 3.5inch exhaust  Head is worked to the shithouse. Bain racing. VCam. 272 exhaust. RB28 - RB26 foundation.  You have an intake issue. Start getting proper data and I mean go back to the simple things.  - Pressure test your intake - Block off the Turbo BOV, you don't need it.  - Test pressure before and after your intercooler If your head is pretty stock, that is your issue. Especially if it is NA.  Take it off and spend $10k on it. 
    • Temp = -21.052 X Voltage + 114   That should get you pretty close. Calcs based on two points I could do easy calcs on (30 and 70 degrees).   It also says your sensor should only read as low as 9 degrees when it maxes out at 5V, and should hit a peak of 114 degrees at 0V... Just as a heads up if you were going really cold places, or wanting to be aware when temps really go up with it.
×
×
  • Create New...