Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I bought my car from a dealer + when he explained the security in the car he said he'd left the stock immobiliser in + added the proximity sensor immobiliser as well, giving me 2 different immobiliser setups...

If I don't hit the 'unlock' button on my key remote, the car won't start. It'll keep turning over, but refuses to start. It self arms this as well. If I turn my engine off + don't lock the car, I still need to hit the unlock button to disable the security + start my car.

And of course if the proximity sensor isn't next to the ignition, the car won't start.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3611471
Share on other sites

So the factory alarm is supposed to be stripped as part of compliance? If so, what is the little fob thing on the key chain for, and also the sensor looking things on the dash? Do they do anything?

who did the compliance on it? if ISASO then it was me that removed it. I've had 3 of them disable 3 cars on me so when I do the compliance immobiliser them they come out. its not factory anyway. they are dealer fitted and some of them are barely fitted. most are in with scotch locks and they are ALWAYS loose.

the black tag on your keyring(autowatch badged) is the Immobilser. two pt std issue. the round thing below the boot release switch that looks like something pushes into it does nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3612926
Share on other sites

hey guys,

just a quick note about the adr82/00.. if the vehicle is fitted with a factory immobiliser there is a way around having to replace it

dotars recognise the ULC-S338/98 which is the canadian standard for immobilisers (all vehicles in canada must be fitted with an immobiliser whether stock or aftermarket)..

The ULC-S338/98 does mention the Infiniti v35 so all you need to do is prove to dotars that the v35 and g35 have the same immobiliser (which you can grab of the Nissan Fast system)

We have been using this evidence for most vics and dotars have never questioned it...

hope this helps

cheers,

k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3613715
Share on other sites

I'll apologise in advance for my lack of knowledge both in this area, and cars in general. So I have the keychain thing, the two sensors on the dash, a small light just under the clock that flashes once the keys out of the ignition, and a red light labelled "Security" to the right of the steering wheel. Do I have an immobilisor or an alarm, and if so, how can they be activated?

Also, I got the car from a dealer in Sydney who do their own compliance.

Sorry again, this isn't really my thing! If I was in Brisbane, I'd be over seeing Chris Rogers already!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3615516
Share on other sites

word of advice- leave it all alone. if you activate it by mistake (IF it works- see other post ) then you have stranded yourself. if you have the nissan branded tag press it into the slot below the steering column. that will activate the dealer fitted alarm. the OE one 1s self triggered. the autowatch one is the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3615654
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

any of the alberts stores. see cannington and speak to pete. get them to toss a autowatch 446 P in it.

Hi Chris,anyone you could recommend in Melbourne?

Edited by rawzz_v35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-6401388
Share on other sites

ok so stopped down at Alberts today. They are going to put in a slightly different system that runs off my car key. $550 installed.

Sound about right? I asked for the Autowatch 446 Premium, but Pete was talking something slightly different.

Once its booked in, I'll let you know exactly what it is :)

Thanks again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-6405179
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...