Jump to content
SAU Community

Alarm

russky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Darckness Apprentice

Darckness

Posted
Posted

I bought my car from a dealer + when he explained the security in the car he said he'd left the stock immobiliser in + added the proximity sensor immobiliser as well, giving me 2 different immobiliser setups...

If I don't hit the 'unlock' button on my key remote, the car won't start. It'll keep turning over, but refuses to start. It self arms this as well. If I turn my engine off + don't lock the car, I still need to hit the unlock button to disable the security + start my car.

And of course if the proximity sensor isn't next to the ignition, the car won't start.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3611471
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
So the factory alarm is supposed to be stripped as part of compliance? If so, what is the little fob thing on the key chain for, and also the sensor looking things on the dash? Do they do anything?

who did the compliance on it? if ISASO then it was me that removed it. I've had 3 of them disable 3 cars on me so when I do the compliance immobiliser them they come out. its not factory anyway. they are dealer fitted and some of them are barely fitted. most are in with scotch locks and they are ALWAYS loose.

the black tag on your keyring(autowatch badged) is the Immobilser. two pt std issue. the round thing below the boot release switch that looks like something pushes into it does nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3612926
Share on other sites
karim Explorer

karim

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

just a quick note about the adr82/00.. if the vehicle is fitted with a factory immobiliser there is a way around having to replace it

dotars recognise the ULC-S338/98 which is the canadian standard for immobilisers (all vehicles in canada must be fitted with an immobiliser whether stock or aftermarket)..

The ULC-S338/98 does mention the Infiniti v35 so all you need to do is prove to dotars that the v35 and g35 have the same immobiliser (which you can grab of the Nissan Fast system)

We have been using this evidence for most vics and dotars have never questioned it...

hope this helps

cheers,

k

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3613715
Share on other sites
jaxxon Apprentice

jaxxon

Posted
Posted

I'll apologise in advance for my lack of knowledge both in this area, and cars in general. So I have the keychain thing, the two sensors on the dash, a small light just under the clock that flashes once the keys out of the ignition, and a red light labelled "Security" to the right of the steering wheel. Do I have an immobilisor or an alarm, and if so, how can they be activated?

Also, I got the car from a dealer in Sydney who do their own compliance.

Sorry again, this isn't really my thing! If I was in Brisbane, I'd be over seeing Chris Rogers already!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3615516
Share on other sites
Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted

word of advice- leave it all alone. if you activate it by mistake (IF it works- see other post ) then you have stranded yourself. if you have the nissan branded tag press it into the slot below the steering column. that will activate the dealer fitted alarm. the OE one 1s self triggered. the autowatch one is the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-3615654
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...
rawzz_v35 Enthusiast

rawzz_v35

Posted
Posted (edited)

any of the alberts stores. see cannington and speak to pete. get them to toss a autowatch 446 P in it.

Hi Chris,anyone you could recommend in Melbourne?

Edited by rawzz_v35
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-6401388
Share on other sites
IMPORTD Grand Master

IMPORTD

Posted
Posted

ok so stopped down at Alberts today. They are going to put in a slightly different system that runs off my car key. $550 installed.

Sound about right? I asked for the Autowatch 446 Premium, but Pete was talking something slightly different.

Once its booked in, I'll let you know exactly what it is :)

Thanks again!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176463-alarm/page/2/#findComment-6405179
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • Duncan
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Duncan · Posted

      yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...