Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

before i bend my steering arm, i just wanted to know the best / easiest way to replace the boot

car is r33 s1gtst.

now i stole someones pics here:

steering.jpg

i've removed the nut closest to the camera but the arm doesnt want to come off easily, and may not need to if there is a better way of getting to the boot

any tips?

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176498-steering-arm-boot/
Share on other sites

Undo the lock nut (it's the bit that the bottom of the red oval goes through).

rotate the tie rod (see the flats on it about 30mm up from the lock nut?) until it unscrews from the tie rod end.

Slide the boot off.

done.

If you're removing the tie rod you need to remove the locking tab at the rack end before trying to unscrew it so that you can re use it rather than fu(k it.

If you want to remove the tie rod end from the steering arm, put the jack under the hub to take up any slack in the suspension then just get a reasonable size hammer and give the steering arm a couple of sharp hits on the side. tie rod end should fall out without damage to the thread.

  • 2 months later...

Hi guys,

I wonder if either of you can help.

I am changing the power steering boots on my R32 GTS4. To start from the start...

I have removed the steering rack from my tie rod end and have removed the steering boots from the tie rod.

On the steering rack end of the tie rod there is a ball housing which is then connected to the steering rod.

Between the ball housing and the steering rack there is a large washer with a rubber ring on the inside of it. It seems to be drifting on the stering rod between the ball joint and the steering rack.

Should this be drifting around or do I have a problem?

Thanks.

post-28712-1191561287_thumb.jpg

mine has had that bit floating around for years with no problem. I initially thought it was a seal, but if it was then i'd have dumped all my power steering fluid on the ground many times over by now. I wouldn't be too concerned, it's probably just a stop of some description to stop metal-metal contact wne the steering is at full lock

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...