Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, I Have a 93 R33 Gts-t Auto

I was wondering if someone could help me with my issue:

Part 1:

I'm ok with my car stuff but this has totally stumped me! I was driving on to the freeway and started to put the foot down when i felt the boost cut come in, but not like usual, not as sudden but more linear if that makes sense....the problem here is that i have set my boost so that i dont ever get boost cut even on cold days!

Part 2:

So i started to keep it at 90ish km/h when the hicas light came on. I pulled over and restarted the engine and the hicas light turned off, now this is when all hell broke lose!

Part 3:

All of a sudden the car started to sound like a big chevy v8. At low revs the inside of the car rumbles and shakes pretty bad and the power seems to be gone...although the boost seems to be still there. The runs like crap now and sounds or feels nothing like my old car! its very rough but the engine itself seems fine, oil is fine, it seems to be from the exhuast but the exhuast seems fine from the outside too. I dont know what it is, i want to get an idea of what can be wrong b4 i give it to someone to have a look at it! the car almost feels and sounds like its running on 4 pistons or something,...but as i said the engine itself seems fine and sounds normal....but the exhuast note is very different.

i dont know if the turbo has gone and is blocking my cat or something, but then again i didnt see a big cloud of smoke and even now i got a mate to have a look and theirs no heavy smoke at all and i still seem to get boost if i put my foot down (but i hvant dont it as much for obvious reason)

PLZ HELP! any feedback is most welcome!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176619-plz-help-r33-majour-issue/
Share on other sites

cooling system issue?

check if you have enough coolant in there.. hows the temp guage?

could even be missing.. sparkies coils leads.

or your comp could have had its last words..

thats a pretty broad range of things to check.... buh yeh... its all i could think off..

hope it helps

good luck

Hi dude. The symptoms you've described are something major. I'm sure plugs/leads/battery/etc. are fine. Your fuel pump could be stuffing up, which could explain the 'boost cut' feeling but not the v8 noise. If you've blown an exhaust turbine you'd see those sypmtoms - the busted wheel would stop you from increasing compressor pressure, and would only get worse. You would only see smoke if you've busted a turbo oil seal and it was spitting oil out through the turbine and exhaust wheel.

If the turbo is fine, you may well have busted a cylinder. A compression test will tell you more. That'd explain the v8 noise and rough performance. Once again, you'd feel a 'boost cut' because the compressor is compressing the air going into the cylinder, but as a ring set is probably stuffed, you aren't actually maintaining the pressure in the cylinder - the 'boost' is leaking out. The exhaust note will be different because the volume of exhaust air has changed.

This isn't a DIY fix unfortunately. Dude I recommend having it towed to a workshop for inspection. Either way, sadly it isn't looking good. I don't know what the deal is with the HICAS light.

Mate I hope you can report back what you find.

Mark

not sure if its any help .. but last time i had a rumble with my r33

it was an exhaust issue one of the gaskets had come loose so check them mate.

but yeah i'd have a look at the exhaust

A busted gasket would explain the noise but not the change in performance. It'd drive the same but sound like a rally car.

Thanks for all your reply's guys, i have a feeling that it maybe the coil pack (s) thats totally gone and not sparking so the cars running on like 4-5 cylinders, I'm guessing thats the reason why its fine when its cold but a few mins of driving makes the car sound and go like crap, when i listened to the engine carefully i can hear it mis, so i hope fingers crossed its coil packs...which should be a easy fix, either way i gave it to my mechanic today to see what he thinks it is...will keep you guys posted to see if this was the case!

Thanks Heaps again for all your posts! you guys are awesome as always!

Hey guys, I Have a 93 R33 Gts-t Auto

I was wondering if someone could help me with my issue:

Part 1:

I'm ok with my car stuff but this has totally stumped me! I was driving on to the freeway and started to put the foot down when i felt the boost cut come in, but not like usual, not as sudden but more linear if that makes sense....the problem here is that i have set my boost so that i dont ever get boost cut even on cold days!

Part 2:

So i started to keep it at 90ish km/h when the hicas light came on. I pulled over and restarted the engine and the hicas light turned off, now this is when all hell broke lose!

Part 3:

All of a sudden the car started to sound like a big chevy v8. At low revs the inside of the car rumbles and shakes pretty bad and the power seems to be gone...although the boost seems to be still there. The runs like crap now and sounds or feels nothing like my old car! its very rough but the engine itself seems fine, oil is fine, it seems to be from the exhuast but the exhuast seems fine from the outside too. I dont know what it is, i want to get an idea of what can be wrong b4 i give it to someone to have a look at it! the car almost feels and sounds like its running on 4 pistons or something,...but as i said the engine itself seems fine and sounds normal....but the exhuast note is very different.

i dont know if the turbo has gone and is blocking my cat or something, but then again i didnt see a big cloud of smoke and even now i got a mate to have a look and theirs no heavy smoke at all and i still seem to get boost if i put my foot down (but i hvant dont it as much for obvious reason)

PLZ HELP! any feedback is most welcome!

im thinkn u need new coil packs

get it tested for compression first if you havent done it recently, and if your were to buy coilpacks id only go with splitfires so that the issue is fixed properly, nothing like putting coil packs in ur car that you dont know anything about. At least if you do the test you'll know what kind of shape your engine is in.

Does it run a coil igniter module? If so, they are prone to breaking down when they get too hot - would explain the symptoms only occur after the engine starts to get hot, and running 4-5 cylinders.

i just got a call from my mechanic that after replacing the coil packs the issue seems to be resolved! which is great news for me! ye my mate told me about the FMIC piping could do the same thing, but i had a good look at it when he told me and that wasn't the case.....so as it stands now the issue was coil packs...i wonder why skylines run coil packs instead of ignition leads? cos everyone has issues after time with coil packs...

PS:

Thanks again for all your reply's guys, gotta love SAU!

Edited by dineth

You have to have an ignition coil of some sort to amplify the ignition voltage. The reason they use more than one coil is to enhance spark strength and by having then directly mounted ontop of each cylinders spark plug this eliminates the use of HT leads which have their own fair share of arcing problems. Unfortunately after 10 or more years the extreme heat that the coil packs are subject to gradually deteriorate them.

Deren :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...