Jump to content
SAU Community

I wanna buy a gtr r33... help


Recommended Posts

I would look around the market before choosing a colour. The reason being is with 2nd hand cars you wont always get your choice of colour. Look around and see what takes your fancy. Normally what happens is you walk into a car yard and see a skyline and say THIS IS MY CAR!!

  • Replies 145
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by Devilish Angel

i like this person...

and isn't 4wd safer cause better controle too???

but the lights on the 34 look good..

argh..

dilemma!!!

No! They're not! All car's have a limit, and when you break the limit in a 4wd, it'll really let you know about it.. My old man's friend *had* a 4wd subaru liberty. Until he hit a guard rail one day and wrote the car off. He believed that his 4wd car would be safer.

It's not power that kills. It's how it delivers the power. RB25 produces it's power more linear and smothly compared to an RB26, which is pretty much all or nothing.

Also a GTR 4WD is not like a WRX 4WD. WRX's 4WD system make any driver look like a future rally star, where a GTR's 4WD seperates the men from mice.

Devilish Angel: Whats the fastest car you have been in ??

Personally i think Gt-t's, gtst's and GTS 25t's are more dangerous then GTR's espically in the wet.

Make sure this is a car you REALLY REALLY REALLY want because at your age thats alot of money which could used alot more productively.

Ok heres what you do.

As cost of car and insurance isnt the problem, buy your dream R33 GTR.

Now the only thing is the fact that other people think you will right yourself off because of the power. And it would seem you are starting to listen to this.

Simple solution is to get your hands on a Power Fc computer for your car. This allows you to tune the car for more hp. Only what you should do is before the inlet manifold place an orifice, with say a 25-30mm opening.

This will limit airflow and reduce hp, you can tune the ECU to allow for the drop in airflow. You will probably have as much hp as a V6 Commodore, and still have 4wd.

You can also but a butterfly valve in the exhaust that will choke up flow and drop off boost pressure, but this wouldnt be so nice for the turbos.

You still have to respect that any car that moves can be overdriven and crashed, so you still have to be just as careful.

Then as you gain experience and become comfortable with driving, you take out the orifice and re-tune the Power FC and, voila, back to stock hp. (actually more if tuned properly)

Hows that for an idea.

Originally posted by Roy

Ok heres what you do.

As cost of car and insurance isnt the problem, buy your dream R33 GTR.

Now the only thing is the fact that other people think you will right yourself off because of the power. And it would seem you are starting to listen to this.

Simple solution is to get your hands on a Power Fc computer for your car. This allows you to tune the car for more hp. Only what you should do is before the inlet manifold place an orifice, with say a 25-30mm opening.  

This will limit airflow and reduce hp, you can tune the ECU to allow for the drop in airflow. You will probably have as much hp as a V6 Commodore, and still have 4wd.  

You can also but a butterfly valve in the exhaust that will choke up flow and drop off boost pressure, but this wouldnt be so nice for the turbos.

You still have to respect that any car that moves can be overdriven and crashed, so you still have to be just as careful.

Then as you gain experience and become comfortable with driving, you take out the orifice and re-tune the Power FC and, voila, back to stock hp. (actually more if tuned properly)

Hows that for an idea.

You could do that

or

You could secure a block of wood under the accelerator pedel so you can't floor it.

Devilish Angel: seeing as you have been in a evo6 so you probably know the performance of these cars and you think you can handle it both from a skill side of things and mentality.

Get your GTR and come cruising :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers)
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
×
×
  • Create New...