Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But what i dont understand is wasn't the r33 always illegal to drive on p's?

but now the fine is over 1k

yeah all imports need compliance man. check for a pink compliance plate too...(but i think thats only if its less than 10 years old - im sure though)

the pink/purple ones are for cars imported under the new sevs scheme, so imported in the last few years

OKay I know this sounds really dumb but series 2's still need to be compliance yeah?? I cant see a compliance plate anywhere under the hood of this thing there normally green and sat somewhere either on the strut top or firewall yeah? Could be why it was so cheap...

There shouild be a pink compliance plate on top of the strut tower in the engine bay - mine is on the drivers side. Thats damn cheap still for a series 2 with 90, 0000 km's but then again if it still hasn't been complioed and road worthied then it might all eventually start to add up to the price of an auto s2. I would imagine an auto s2 would be around 15 or so - fully complied and rwc or course... And the thing about road worthy is you never really know how much its gonna cost to get one - as there always little things you dont factor for.

Just to add the car still talks to me in japanse has like a japanes rego sticker on the windscreen and has what looks liek an aussie vin number printed next to the strut tower but theres not compliance plate??

If there is a plate with the "aus" vin on the strut tower or engraved on the strut tower then this car has been brought in under the personal import scheme. No compliance plate required. My mates R32 is the same...... he has a little plate pop riveted to the drivers side strut. Unless Vic has different rules??? I thought it was Australia wide though...

Has the car been previously registered in oz? If not, did they supply engineers papers/mod plate for first rego? The car only needs to have a few things taken care of and signed off on by an engineer if brought in under the 12mth personal scheme. Seatbelts, intrusion bars, etc

I think you'll find that regardless of HOW a car is bought in to the county it is still required to be complied to Australian Design Rules. There should be a compliance plate on all cars. There was a hell of a lot of bad stuff going on before the introduction of the RAWS/SEVS scheme. It was introduced to stamp out a lot of the corruption and back yard scammers and to monitor the workshops who were eligible to comply these vehicles.

I can tell you this for a fact as my previous R33 was brought in and was done under dodgy compliance. The car was a repairable write off and I bought the wreck back an sold it. The new owner bought the car as was and fixed it, when he went to register it they told him that the car was not complied (I was VERY clear when selling the wreck, he didn't seem to care). If you try to register a car with no compliance plate you're not going to have a hope in hell that's the bottom line as far as I'm aware though I stand to be corrected :)

If you try to register a car with no compliance plate you're not going to have a hope in hell that's the bottom line as far as I'm aware though I stand to be corrected :)

Yep pretty much. It might have been a 'bargain' because it's unable to be registered for some reason or another, and it wouldn't have been the first (or last) time someone's done this (sold a car which can't be registered to someone who wasn't aware).

has what looks liek an aussie vin number printed next to the strut tower but theres not compliance plate??

Best bet is to contact DOTARS Vehicle Imports Enquiry Line (1800 815 272) or VicRoads, confirm your mate is the current owner of the car, give them the VIN details and ask about the status of the car. They should be able to tell you whether it's been previously registered / imported for road use, or if it can be in the future.

Private imports are "complied" differently, as are cars older than 12/88 which are eligable for import under the "15 year" rulings.

It may have changed since I brought my S13 in under the private import scheme, Il ask the compliancer next door. When mine was done Green (Pink now) compliance plates are only issued to low volume grey imports, not private nor "15 year" imports. They are issued a VIN and are registerable with an engineers certificate indicating that the requirements have been met for registration.

Mine was around 6 years ago... my mates 32 was 3 years ago. The engineers certificates are not required to be kept in the car etc as per ones for modifications, they are held at the RTA.

Stop your complaining about pricing,

Consider when R33 lines starting to show up in Victoria, i picked my old 33 up for $20 and it was cheap LOL. Stock as, only come with a boost gauge lucky it has ABS and that's like back in the day. These days i still see crazy modded up 33 but no ABS, pretty scary unless you're a race driver.

Stop your complaining about pricing,

Consider when R33 lines starting to show up in Victoria, i picked my old 33 up for $20 and it was cheap LOL. Stock as, only come with a boost gauge lucky it has ABS and that's like back in the day. These days i still see crazy modded up 33 but no ABS, pretty scary unless you're a race driver.

:) I dont follow

Update found the compliance plate you wouldnt believe it on the unbder side of the passanger side door..??..??? WTF??? the vin on the compliance plate doesnt match up with that on the strut tower..so im not too sure she takes it to get registered at vicroads today so Ill find out I guess..

The vin on the strut tower I called up vicroads they said it doesnt even exist so im a bit confused..

anyhow car passed roadworthy only thing it needed was the gps screen removed as it blocked the drivers vision..

one thing though it seems to have the advan tri spoke racing rims on them they look like they have a single hub nut and are not like 5-stud or anything... is this just a cap cause if so we havent figured out how to get it off..any hints??

hmmmm hopefully VIC rds can clear it up... although it doesn't sound promising. Did you enquire on the compliance plate details? Hopefully they are all above board.

Regarding the wheels the centre cap will screw off..... wheel nuts are hiding underneath.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...