Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Clutch Troubles

12VES
 Share

Recommended Posts

12VES Contributor

12VES

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

I've got a 1990 R32 Gtst with 217rwkw and an NPC brass button clutch. I had some trouble a while ago with the clutch not disengaging properly i.e. when pulling up to a set of traffic lights with my foot on the clutch and brake pedal, the car would lurch forward slightly and want to "drive on." I would then have to reef the gear stick out of first gear and in to neutral, and then back into first and then it would be ok untill I had to pull up at another set of lights etc. Initially I put this down to the heavy pressure plate in the car, however i took the car back to my workshop and had them change the pressure plate to a lighter one. The car was then alot more driveable on the street and the problem seemed to go away, until a couple of days ago and it has gradually gotten worse. I can't come to a stand with my foot on the clutch without having to reef it out of gear when I stop. I have changed both the Master cylinder and slave cylinders a few months ago and the clutch system doesn't appear to be losing any fluid, I have bled the system correctly and now I am at a loss. I was wondering whether anyone else has come across anything similar and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers Dylan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177013-r32-clutch-troubles/
Share on other sites
Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

You may need to pull the peddle box out and check to see it hasnt broken any spot welds on it, could be possible that the box is now flexing when you put your foot on the clutch and not acctually pushing the clutch in far enough.

Other issue may be master or slave, i know you said you replaced them but were the replacements brand new? If not then whats to say there isnt a problem there.

Finally, in the middle section between the master and slave theres the box with lines going in and out of it and a bleed nipple..piss this section off all together and just run a line from the master to the slave, then bleed starting from the master followed by the slave.

Guest101 Newbie

Guest101

Posted
Posted

Did you machine the flywheel when changing the clutch?

My guess is the flywheel is worn into a funnel shape (only very slightly, probably invisable to the eye). So when you shove the pedal in the clutch plate is still grabbing along the outside edge..

If the flywheel is fine, perhaps there is a physical defect in the pressure plate. Or maybe you have a mismatched clutch bearing (happened to me, I was supplied a bearing slightly shorter than what was required, and the outside clips on the bearing were hitting the solid edge of the pressure plate).

Hope that helps. Clutches can be a real pain. :blink:

legend01 Experienced

legend01

Posted
Posted

I had a similar problem to this once and it was the slave cylinder was bleeding back, seals were on there way out, the more it got used the worse it was but recovered when driven for a while and clutch not used had me buggered for months till I found it ,just wouldnt travel full length same can happen to mastercylinder ...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does that German restaurant still exist in the old place out the NW end of Goulburn? When I say "out the NW end of"...I am really being vague. It was 1997 when I was last there, and the only point of reference I can recall is that it was on the opposite side of the main drag from the big merino. And when I say "opposite side of the main drag", I don't mean "on the main drag". It was either a couple of streets back from there, or might have even been out in the sticks a bit further. Was an old farm building or mill or somesuch. And when I say "the big merino" I might actually be thinking of a completely different part of town, because I just looked on maps and the big bugger is not where I remembered him to be! The food was good, consisting largely of various German mystery-meat sausage/loaf things and kartofflen.
    • GTSBoy
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      So while the second sentence is completely correct and the whole point of the conversation, the first sentence bears consideration. If this bloke is just hoping to throw big turbos on and drive it around, because there are no helpful facilities at all in his tropical paradise** then he likely has zero chance of even knowing what the TP is on the last column in the stock maps, let alone know whether the ECU is operating anywhere near it or past it. So the point is very very moot. And, per what I said before, at stock boost on those turbos, you may well be off the end of the map. **I'm just back from Vanuatu, so I know exactly what small Pacific nations can be like wrt paradise without requisite facilities. But it's not even that simple. I put a high flow on my car and had to drive it around with a proper tune because of the lack of opportunity*** to put the bigger AFM and injectors into it to allow it to be tuned. I had to turn the boost down to less than I had before, and back off the boost controller's ramp, because it was exploring parts of the map that it didn't drive in before, and really couldn't access for tuning on the dyno either, and so was pinging. It was still well within the last column, because when I first**** set up the Nistune on the Neo I rescaled all axes of the maps to give some more space to explore. ***Family dyno was broken ****This was 13 years ago, and the TIM thing wasn't a thing then and so TP would definitely grow when pushing past the stock tune's limits.
    • joshuaho96
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, this bit another local owner. I caught it before putting the transmission back into the car, what I noticed was the pressure plate fingers weren't flat and even. It's more obvious with the pull style clutch because the throwout bearing ring was visibly not flat once everything is put together. Nismo should really update their instructions to call out this specific detail. I'm not even sure the clutch as-shipped orients everything properly.
    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      It ended up being that orientation of the float hub in relation to the clutch disk, when I installed it, I heard a loud click and being stupid, I decided to not take it a part and check it. The hub didn't properly align with the clutch disk and was causing the issue. Definitely an odd one! Dahtone Racing was able to fix me right up, stand up blokes!      
    • joshuaho96
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Right, but I'm saying on the stock ECU measured airmass from the MAF is no higher than stock. So it's accounting for the higher flow rate iso-manifold pressure. You just have to keep turning down the boost until you're within the stock tune's load scale. If you run off the end there's no telling what will happen. This does mean there's zero benefit to the turbos you're running vs stock, if anything it's just a straight downgrade because the transient response is worse, you don't even get the ECU's boost solenoid helping to pull the wastegate closed during initial spool, and peak power is only whatever the factory map can give you before you hit the R&R corner. On a -9 I would bet that you would have to change out the wastegate spring once you have a real ECU and you're tuning it for real. I'm not saying this is a remotely ideal state of affairs, it's just a way to keep it driveable until you can get a proper tune done.
×
×
  • Create New...