Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well those US headers are on, no fitting or LHD issues at all, took around 6 hours, performance wise i cant tell u as i havent started on the rest of the exhaust system, its going to be twin 2 1/2" with an x pipe and high flow cats and no resonators... i know its large but its there now so when i can afford to go the aspirated route i dont have to change the exhaust again.. I also just ordered a JWT pulley kit and pop charger, the oem 350z intake pipe is just a pipe without the resonators so im just going to knock one up while im doing the exhaust... let you all know how is goes.

Hey Mr PULP - yep but it looks better in the flesh as the pic doesnt have the KS Burnout Carbon kit on it :P

I saw you the other day in Osb Park actually

I think Im convinced on the HKS kit!

JK

Hey yeah I saw you too :D

Have you got any pics with the new kit yet? wouldnt mind seeing.

Hehe, toying with some ideas and now doing some research, Im very much liking the idea of a VK56 sitting in the engine bay... Selling the current engine and gearbox package i could just about break even on cost to do it... If anyone of you have read my thread on my 33 (see link in sig) im not one for being told things cannot be done... If i was to do it it i would probably be aiming for around november december start...

Edited by NA_R33

Well, the headers are on, along with a full mandrel 2 1/2'' system complete with highflow cats and x pipe, threw a 350z carbon intake pipe on and my old k n n panel until the JWT popcharger and underdrive crank pulley arrive.

The car feels heaps stronger right throughout the rev range, its in bad need of some resonators though as it as a very raspy twin cam resonance about it... But it most definately goes considerably quicker.. will try get it back out the drags sometime soon too see just how much better it goes..

NOTE: The ebay "Dry Carbon Intake" does not fit... its about 4-5inches too long.. i had to cut it down and even then it still isnt the best fit... Im going to email the seller to see if i can come to some sort of resolution but im not holding my breath... see pics below...

post-3649-1187009901_thumb.jpg

post-3649-1187009925_thumb.jpg

post-3649-1187009947_thumb.jpg

post-3649-1187009984_thumb.jpg

Edited by NA_R33
  • 4 months later...

This thread has been dormant for some time, but it has some good info and just needs everyone to bring it up to date with their mods and thoughts. The SoSK project R33GTST is just about to have its forged engine installed, which pretty much completes the build. A red V35 Coupe manual with Track Pack is going to take a few months to find, so plenty of time for some research.

This is pretty much the look we are chasing, as seen at SEMA;

gallery_1903_2168_470333.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_708585.jpg

The suspension will be my usual combination of Bilsteins (PS9's in this case), Selbys Swaybars (of course) and whatever alignment products I can source, especially something to give it some more caster, Skylines always need more caster.

The power up kit I currently favour is this one;

gallery_1903_2168_264090.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_462642.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_953619.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_254014.jpg

gallery_1903_2168_729148.jpg

I am thinking the GTRS's as the 3.5 litre will have no problem spooling them up. Plus I can run low boost and still make some power, around 300 rwkw would be nice. The ECU is the current open question, at SEMA HKS were suggesting the FCon, but I am not happy being in the hands of one tuner only. So what have you guys found?

Merry Xmas

Gary

I am thinking the GTRS's as the 3.5 litre will have no problem spooling them up. Plus I can run low boost and still make some power, around 300 rwkw would be nice.

The APS TT's turbines are Garrett GT2835R's, if I remember correctly, and those things are making usable boost by around 2800RPM. It might give you an idea if you know what those turbos are like in comparison to the GT-RS'.

Also, 300rwkW is right on the limit of the stock bottom end. I'd assume that you'd go for a rebuild, though.

The ECU is the current open question, at SEMA HKS were suggesting the FCon, but I am not happy being in the hands of one tuner only. So what have you guys found?

One of the most popular ECU's at the moment is the TurboXS UTEC (i'm looking at replacing my Unichip for one eventually). It supports multiple maps that you can change via a switch, can act as an interceptor for the OEM ECU or cut it out completely (not sure how important the former is if you're not planning on street driving the car). The programming software is available so you can run a laptop yourself and do your own tuning (or output the diagnostic displays if you have a car PC).

GReddy is releasing an F-Manage in the near future, which has good control of the CVTC for both intake and exhaust (I don't know how many ECUs can adjust the cam timing module) but its not out yet, and I'm not sure how suitable it is. Only the 221kW VQ35DE's have exhaust-side CVTC, and I don't think any V35s came with them.

A friend of mine is running a Haltech at the moment, with assistance from Autotech in Granville (the approved APS installer in NSW) on his APS TT 350Z. Not cheap, and its barely hit the market so there's very little experience with them for the VQ35DE.

I am curious as to why you're choosing the V35 over the Z33 when it comes to buying a FM platform car to modify. The Z33 is lighter and stiffer, and with a stockish looking bodykit it has better cooling due to the larger front grill.

Last question first, I want a Skyline, a red one, I like low volume imports, there too many 350Zs' for my purposes, a V35 is a Touring Car whereas a 350Z is a Sports Car, a V35 is cheaper and I think it looks better with the longer wheelbase, plus I occasionally need rear seats. Yes, it will most definitely be street driven, daily in fact. Plus it will see the track occasionaly as most (but not all) of my cars do.

I have looked at the Turbo XS and I like the functionality to piggy back it with the standard ECU so that the electronics function normally and the cold start and run are factory tuning. The cost is a bit on the high side, but it seems one of the better solutions.

Will probably stick with the standard engine with maybe some cams, until we kill it. That then opens up this huge bag of USA stuff that I looked at at SEMA. Plenty of engineering fun to be had for years to come.

Merry Xmas

Gary

If its being regularly street driven, a V35 is a lot more convenient than the Z33. Sometimes not having rear seats is a pain in the arse, as is a stupid strut brace that doesn't let you carry luggage. I thought you were building an off-street car, which is why I was asking.

Being able to piggyback the UTEC so you can retain the OEM ECU niceties (like cold start, timing adjustment depending on fuel quality, open loop and closed loop driving, etc) while also being able to run it in a full ECU replacement for track use is a big reason why I want to drop my Unichip, while not splashing out for a Haltech.

If you find cams for an NA application with a near-stock redline, I'd be quite interested to see what you get. Most of the upgraded cams I've seen for the VQ35DE have ended up gaining sweet FA in the top end, but losing a noticable chunk of midrange, unless the engine's been built to rev.

If its being regularly street driven, a V35 is a lot more convenient than the Z33. Sometimes not having rear seats is a pain in the arse, as is a stupid strut brace that doesn't let you carry luggage. I thought you were building an off-street car, which is why I was asking.

Being able to piggyback the UTEC so you can retain the OEM ECU niceties (like cold start, timing adjustment depending on fuel quality, open loop and closed loop driving, etc) while also being able to run it in a full ECU replacement for track use is a big reason why I want to drop my Unichip, while not splashing out for a Haltech.

If you find cams for an NA application with a near-stock redline, I'd be quite interested to see what you get. Most of the upgraded cams I've seen for the VQ35DE have ended up gaining sweet FA in the top end, but losing a noticable chunk of midrange, unless the engine's been built to rev.

Cams in an N/A application are somewhat of a different proposition to cams in a turbo application. You use boost to fill in any midrange holes in the torque curve caused by the longer duration. The extra lift is a real benefit as it lets the air flow hence reduces the amount of boost required for the same power out put. More importantly in an N/A engine being boosted, the increased overlap is beneficial as it reduces the effective compression ratio. Plus I can run more ignition timing for better response, than would otherwise be the case.

Simply put, I don't care about an N/A hole in the mid range, it just won't be there when we apply some boost.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...