Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes, very nice. You will definately need those with the heavy GTR.... What are you doing with the old ones? Might be suited to very light GTST....

my car might be closer than ive made out...got some nice brakes for the circuit car today too Stewie...How does 375mm 6 spot AP's grab ya.
  • Replies 843
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

did you take your medication today Jas?

With all those tight bends it will be interesting to see the pressure differential between your turbo (making the boost) and the plenum (pressure going into the head)
Im not knocking it dude, and I can easily see it is the only path for it, just interested in how it will affect the pressure.

Sorry, it's my engineering background nit picking.

If mine is anything to go by it wont affect pressure at all. I have some crazier bends than adrian owing to me wanting to do things a certain way and it certainly has no problems throwing up 500 plus ponies at the treads.

Once boost is made the whole system is under constant pressure so i fail to see how bends can have too much effect.

If mine is anything to go by it wont affect pressure at all. I have some crazier bends than adrian owing to me wanting to do things a certain way and it certainly has no problems throwing up 500 plus ponies at the treads.

Once boost is made the whole system is under constant pressure so i fail to see how bends can have too much effect.

Are you saying that you have the same pressure at the turbo as at the plenum? and no pressue drop?

Having a big volume of air going through those pipes with bends or reducers does affect airflow.

Especially under boost.

Although, for this application it may not be so important, i.e. 10secs at full throttle.

Think of why restrictors, aka washers, are used to control airflow in turbo cars in plenty of classes of motorsport to slow down the airflow.

also think of things like match porting exhaust manifolds or intake manifolds/plenums instead of leaving the sizes different?

2 stroke exhausts with expansion chambers are another example?

Should I continue?

Anyway, as Adrian has pointed out already, the piping runs are dictated by the space available. It's quite clear that this is the case.

And when you run out of boost to throw in it you can always get a fist full of Maccas straws, connect them together, run them from a hole in the intake and blow into it from the drivers seat, i know you can build some pressure Adzy boy :laugh:

You would blow half of the Viet pro's out of their knickers, literally. Ha, pity you cost more, my bottom still hurts lol

And when you run out of boost to throw in it you can always get a fist full of Maccas straws, connect them together, run them from a hole in the intake and blow into it from the drivers seat, i know you can build some pressure Adzy boy :laugh:

You would blow half of the Viet pro's out of their knickers, literally. Ha, pity you cost more, my bottom still hurts lol

BWAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA......<big breath in>....BWAAAHAHAAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!

Had the radiator serviced and a new cap fitted. It was more blocked than I thought so it should be all good now. Mounted and wired up the 2 x Maradyne thermo fans using both the factory switch and a manual override so I can have them on even if the engine thinks they're not needed. Also wired up the low-oil pressure switch and light and the Tech Edge Wideband unit and display. The backlight on the display is really good and dead-easy to read. Very impressed.

DSC00090.jpg

DSC00091.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...