Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Helo,

I have put an SR20DET into my R32. I have the engine loom and wiring diagrams for the interior loom of 200SX/Silvia S14 etc but cant seem to find any wiring diagrams for the R32 interior main harness where the engine loom joins onto the main harness, i need to know the pin outs (not for the ECU) for the connectors so i can splice them together with the SR20DET.

If anyone has any diagrams i would be very grateful.

Thanks John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177556-sr20det-into-r32/
Share on other sites

I've never seen one.

Half of the dash plug wires can be traced directly back to the ecu so the 32 pinout diagram works for those. The rest need to be traced back into the engine loom, which is easy enough to do with a continuity tester and a second pair of hands. Find which plug it runs to, figure out what the plugs into and you know what it is.

There are a few wires running direct into the engine loom off the top of my head (later model r32) 2 wires for the water temp sensor for the climate control, 2 wires for the fuel pump speed dropping resistor, 1 wire for the water temp gauge, 1 wire for the ac on trigger, 1 wire tied into the wipers (you need to strip the wiper loom out of the r32 engine loom and keep it). I'm sure i've forgotten a few but that gives you 7 of the roughly 20 wires on the dash plugs, and about 10 go to the ecu.

I had to add the fuel pump dropping resistor plug and the climate control temp sensor plug into the rb25 loom when i did that swap.

Hope that helps a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...