Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Predator,

Your reply quoted Guilt-Toy, who has very good 0-100 times. I think you mistook him for me?

I'm the one with the actual problem, and I have the stock standard turbo. (I now have the EBC w/11.5psi but I am yet to do any 0-100 runs with this setup).

FWIW, I timed a *slow* (14 second) 0-70kph run, comparing the AP22 result with a stopwatch - they matched quite closely (within a second). I'm quite comfortable that the AP22 is working ok.

Greg.

Just a thought, but are you sure you've got your variable cam timing connected? I left mine disconnected once and with all my mods I could only get 137rwkw. Once reconnected it made 177rwkw. Basically it totally destroyed my top end and made the car feel slow when I pushed it (I never tested my 0-100), but driving around normally on the street it didn't feel too bad (only slightly slow feeling).

hmmmmm ye... i got a stock r33 Auto and i have done a few 6 secs 0-100's on cold days using the 1-2-D method. Dont do it all the time cos is bad for the motor, but jus to see how much i could push it. Must say im very impressed with the RB25, dont make that much noise when ya redline on cold days. Could easily hit a 100 in 2nd gear.

Just keep practicing, if you're worried about your car, find a nice quiet bit of private road somewhere, and do a rolling start against another similarly modded 33. I'm guessing it's just your launching though, there's a lot to it, depending on suspension, tyre pressures and the most important thing being driver skills.

Just keep testing different methods of launching i guess, find out what works best for you, i like using the sliding the clutch out slower to keep the power on that optimum level before wheel spin, but that shagged my last clutch and i havn't had my car going right where i wanna push it yet.

Ok, thanks everyone.

Btw, I should mention that I have a button clutch. (sporty, not full race). It's quite a bit more savage on the takeup than the standard clutch, and I find it hard to get a good launch without excessive wheel spin.

I'll set the AP22 into continuous mode next time, to get more detail about what happens in 2nd around the redline. (i.e, it'll log g-force 100 times a second, and the data can be analysed later)

The car feels much better now without the boost staging. I understand that this is a trivial mod to do, too.

MIC33R: the cam timing cable was plugged in, however we found that the connector was loose - it came off too easily. (we replaced the plug on the cable to fix that). Just maybe something was going on there - thanks for the hint!

I did a slowish run, but gunned it in 2nd at about 70kph. Purpose was to see if the problem at redline in 2nd is repeatable. Looking at the plot, I can see that the car never made it to 100kph in 2nd gear at all! :P:D It got to about 98kph, when the rev limiter kicked in.

I suspect that the previous circa 9 second result (where I revved out 2nd) was obtained only after I slowly shifted up to third, thinking that I had already got to 100 in 2nd.

Just by the way, the 100kph mark on my speedometer is actually about 97kph. (checked with a GPS, which is very accurate for speed on the flat)

Skip.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...